1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

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jkim
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1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

I think it's time to start another build post. I've got two on-going builds that are having to be paused for the time being. I am waiting for some aftermarket parts for the G-14 that are generously being donated by a SPAM/LSP member but they seem to stuck in transit. No tracking update since April 25! Hopefully, it is just a pandemic-related delay and not a lost package. The Tank is in the initial stages of weathering. I have access panels on the bottom of the wings that I scribed but didn't have the skill/dexterity to add the small latches. I was going to just leave them blank but I'm now working with someone who's willing to try and make up some small latch decals to try. Don't want to go much further on the weathering until I get those latches squared away.

So... I need something else to work on. The Fw 190D-13 has been on my list for a while now. It is an interesting machine in that it is relatively rare (only two operational machines that have been photographically recorded). However, the one machine (Yellow 10) is very well documented since it was captured by the Allies at the end of the war, brought to the US and ultimately fully restored. It's well documented photographically but difficult to interpret since the wartime photos are in black and white and the scheme was an unusual, one-off type of field application. I have two reputable resources available (Jerry Crandall's Dora Volume Two and JaPo's 190D Volume Two) but both have different interpretations as to what the color scheme looked like.

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The Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 kit, which is excellent by the way, will be used as the base. I've collected quite an arsenal of aftermarket items for the Dora since it is my favorite aircraft, some of which are overlapping and won't be utilized.
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Here is a list...
1. 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-9 model kit
2. Grey Matter (Jerry Rutman) 190D-13 conversion set
3. Real Models 190D-13 conversion set
4. Henri Daehne VS9 190D-13 prop
5. Eagle Editions 190D cockpit set
6. Eagle Editions 190D wooden flaps
7. Eagle Editions 190D-9, D-11, D-13 tail wheel
8. Aires 190D wheel wells
9. Synthetic Ordnance Works 190D landing gear legs
10. Quickboost 190D exhausts
11. Quickboost 190A-7/A-9 gun barrels
12. Barracuda 190D wheels
13. Eduard 190D exterior details
14. Eduard 190D instrument panel
15. Eagle Cal Yellow 10 decals

Like I said, some of these items overlap and may not be used. For example, if I use the Aires wheel wells, the Quickboost A-7/A-9 gun barrels will not be necessary since Aires correctly represents the metal (not fabric) boots for the wing-mounted guns. The wheel well details from the Eduard photoetch would also not be necessary. I won't go into the Hasegawa kit parts since I've done that on my previous D-9 builds. I'll talk a little bit about the conversion from D-9 to D-13 and how I am going to attempt the modification.
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

The next few posts are going to be a repeat of what I've already posted in the Future Builds section so feel free to skip.

First, let's take a look at the Grey Matter D-13 conversion kit. It is a resin conversion comprised of two fuselage halves, the engine cowling, supercharger intake scoop, spinner, prop blades, center fuselage section and a bulkhead of some sort.
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The parts are molded in light grey resin and upon first inspection, it is a mixed bag in terms of quality. The fuselage pieces are quite thin and flexible. The thickness of the parts seem to be similar to the kit parts, which is probably an attempt by the maker to reduce the amount of work it would take to accommodate the internal kit parts. However, the loss of rigidity may introduce alignment/strength issues but perhaps the joining of the fuselage pieces to one another would achieve an acceptable level of strength.
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The cowling has been modified to reflect the absence of guns above the engine.
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The Jumo 213F engine of the D-13 required larger support arms that necessitated bulges in the frontal fuselage as well as a larger supercharger intake.
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The D-13 utilized wide paddle-shaped propeller blades (VS9) and a MG 151/20mm cannon firing through the spinner. You can see a bit of the inconsistent molding quality in the Grey Matter spinner.
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The single engine-mounted gun used one central chute for expended ammo casings and the resin kit provides the necessary modification.
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The fuselage parts are not perfectly square with one another and there is some warpage but with a few adjustments, I could probably get them to fit.
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All of the D-13 modifications occur forward of the cockpit. The major mod being the addition of a subtle longitudinal bulge on either side, above the exhausts and below the hinge line, designed to clear the larger engine support arms.
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Comparing the kit fuselage on the left with the resin fuselage on the right, you can see that the thickness of the resin is comparable to the kit plastic. You can also see some of the inconsistencies of the resin mold... the plug for the exhaust stubs will not be able to seat properly without some major cleanup.
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A general observation of the molding quality of the resin kit... the components that are unaltered from the Hasegawa kit are clean and molded about as finely as you would find on the kit part. The areas of modification, however, varies in refinement as evidenced by this circular fuel port, which is mounted slightly higher on the D-13 than the D-9. And I thought I was bad at centering concentric circles!
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

Here is a comparison of the Grey Matter components compared to the same Hasegawa parts. The resin fuselage features the same internals as the kit plastic, down to the locating tabs, locating pins and holes, which make fitting the pieces a little easier. But even so, it takes a bit of effort to tape the resin halves together due to the warping.
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I'm guessing that the masters for the resin mold were the Hasegawa fuselage parts with the D-13 modifications grafted onto them. The Hasegawa-derived details seem to be molded much more uniformly than the added details. There are some exceptions to this including some messiness around the exhaust openings and notably the bottom engine cowling seam.
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Here is an example of resin warping at the tail joint.
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Looking at the interior side of the cowling parts, you can see the filler used to beef up the part prior to sculpting of the Hasegawa part.
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If I have a choice, I'll usually pick working with styrene plastic over resin. Based on warping issues, the messy resin areas, the lack of any added detail to the resin over the kit plastic and my overall comfort level with resin, I am planning on avoiding use of the resin parts as much as possible. I'm planning on following in the steps of the resin maker and make my own modifications to the kit parts, using this set and other references as a guide. This is not to say that the Grey Matters resin is not good or is not usable. This is just a personal preference and there are some great examples of this conversion set being used very successfully.

The port side bulge seems to be fairly simple to sculpt as it is pretty uniform and there is nothing in the way. The starboard side is a different matter. I'd have to contend with the base of the supercharger intake, which is larger than found on the D-9. To get a different perspective on the proposed changes, I can place the kit cowling onto the resin fuselage to see the contours of the added material.
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

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As an additional resource, I went ahead and purchased the Real Model D-13 conversion. In terms of components, it is similar to the GM conversion minus the fuselage.
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I've not really looked at this set in great detail but the top cowling seem to be very similar to the GM version. So it looks like I have at least two choices when it comes to this area. I could even attempt to sculpt my own!
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The Real Model D-13 conversion set comes with a set of instructions that illustrate the type of corrections that I planning. The only issue I see is that removal of the existing supercharger intake base on the starboard side and re-implementation of a larger base for the new supercharger. A few steps more complicated than the port side but I'm hoping I can handle it.
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Comparatively, the Grey Matter D-13 conversion comes with no instructions but just an informational sheet, which claims "no cutting is required". Obviously aimed at the more experienced modeler.
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I sawed off the RM cowling from its casting block, cleaned it up and mounted it on the Hasegawa D-9 fuselage. It took some extra trimming on the cowling ends to get it to fit, length-wise. It appears that the bottom rear edge of the cowling is narrower than the fuselage, resulting in a noticeable step that would need to be corrected.
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The GM cowling, although not perfect, fits better than the RM cowling. Dimensions seem to correspond more accurately to the Hasegawa fuselage and will require less remedial work.
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The two D-13 supercharger intakes are slightly different in shape. The RM intake has a leaner look with a thinner lip around the intake opening. It also has some recessed panel line details missing from the GM intake and, maybe significantly, it includes the flare at the base. I am leaning on utilizing the RM intake as it would take less work to mount.
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by Stikpusher »

Looks like this is going to be a bit of a Frankenstein project with parts from at least three different sources.
"Surely I have made my meaning plain? I intend to avenge myself upon you, Admiral. I have deprived your ship of power, and when I swing 'round, I intend to deprive you of your life."

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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

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Hopefully, a well-behaved and tidy Frankenstein!

I've given the Grey Matter parts a coat of primer to help accentuate the surface textures. I can better see the subtle bulges that need to be added to the Hasegawa fuselage.
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The big ugly task comes first. I have to get the supercharger intake off before the sculpting begins. And this is the most awkward type of removal there is for me.
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I decided to attack it with a grinding stone mounted on the rotary tool. Nice and slow since the tool will melt plastic if kept in one place for very long.
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Getting closer but still not quite there.
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I noticed that I'm getting dangerously close to punching through to the other side.
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This might prolong the cutting down process but I decided that it was important that I establish a solid base for the upcoming sculpting work. So I backed the thin areas with White Milliput. Also filled in the fan opening on the exterior side.
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While I had the rotary tool out, I mounted the kit radiator cowling to it and re-shaped it. It's hard to see in the photos, but the kit cowling is too square and needs a more pronounced taper towards the front. The re-shaped on is on the right while the unmodified cowling is on the left. I used the Quickboost resin cowling, which I've previously found to be slightly undersized in diameter, as a reference.
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LyleW
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by LyleW »

My, oh my! Good job!
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

Thanks Lyle!

Another view of the radiator cowling to try and show the re-shaping effort. Doesn't the kit part on the right look boxier?
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The supercharger base has been eradicated.
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I don't know why I'm filling in the surface pits since they will most likely be covered by the supercharger.
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Almost ready to start mapping out the "bulge".
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by Floki »

You are braver than I am John. I will be watching and learning as much as I can from this.
March as one, Don't look back
Odin's sons... Attack!
Unleash hell! Do not repent! Warfare grants us no lament
Let your weapons slash and tear This is no place for fear
Hold the lines! Move as one! In unity our victory's won
Our shields will form a mighty wall
United we shall never fall
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by LyleW »

Floki wrote:You are braver than I am John. I will be watching and learning as much as I can from this.
:that:
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..
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