1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

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BlackSheep214
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by BlackSheep214 »

Oh my...
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

Time to inspect a new aftermarket item. This is the Aires Wheel Well set for the 190D. Aires casts some of the most intricate resin bits that I've run across and this one is no exception. The wiring detail is almost TOO fine.
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Since the Hasegawa wheel wells are separate inserts, it should be a plug-n-play replacement and there shouldn't be any messy removals to deal with besides removing some hefty casting bases. Note that the Hasegawa wheel wells has almost all of the details as the Aires parts but they are not as finely rendered. So the deficiency is not one of omission but execution, which may be relevant.
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The kit wheel well insert is integral to a spar that helps maintain the correct spacing between the upper and lower wing parts. Grafting the spar into place with the Aires wheel well parts should not be an issue.
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When I place one of the Aires wheel wells into place, I start to notice some issues. With the skinny end of the Aires part butted up directly against the landing gear base, the holes for the wing guns do not line up correctly. And the wide end of the part doesn't reach the end of the wing part like the kit piece does. As if the Aires part is undersized.
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The three major components of the Aires set fit positively with one another so I temporarily glued them together using CA glue.
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And then took measurements using a Micrometer.
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Centering the Aires wheel well onto the wing bottom reveals the gap caused by the undersized wheel well, which is actually not a huge issue in my book. I'm more worried about the alignment of the wing gun holes.
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The Aires wheel well parts are definitely undersized. I COULD get them to work, if I wanted to. But I'm thinking that the enhancement in detail is not worth the effort. I also have this...
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which could be used to spice up the Hasegawa wheel well a little. I'll think about it.

The first step to establish the fuselage bulge has been taken. Instead of randomly slathering some putty, I want to use sheet styrene as a form to help establish some consistency.
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

Additional forms to establish the base of the bulges have been added.
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After this dries, I'll start sculpting with Milliput.
John aka JKim
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speedgraflex
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by speedgraflex »

Ah, this is exciting. Your keen sense of subject fidelity and ability to synthesize aftermarket is always a joy to watch, John—a form of ambrosia. I think the Japo profiling of the three painting stages is quite good. I don’t have the Crandall profile, unfortunately. I did find the Eduard profile which at a deep glance but only just a glance shows a bit of “port/starboard” variation along with a much brighter green nose. I don’t think much of using the diminutive Aires resin; I assume you will detail the Hasegawa wheel well accordingly. Looking forward to more.
Bruce / SPEEDGRAFLEX
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Floki
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by Floki »

Great idea using sheet styrene to start things off. I never super detail the wheel wells since I put all my builds on bases so my opinion would be the kit pieces along with the PE would work best.
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by Stuart »

This is shaping up to be another awesome build John - looking forward to following along.
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My blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

Thanks so much for the comments guys! As for the scheme, I have not decided which direction that I'll be going in. I'm not sold on either JaPo or Crandall's interpretation of the color scheme and I may adopt a hybrid of the two. JaPo is very good at reconstructing the factory practices to establish what they think happened before the field modifications occurred. Crandall's book has more analysis of the actual aircraft through various stages of restoration.

I'll most likely use the Hasegawa wheel well but I haven't ruled out the option of the Aires resin just yet!
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speedgraflex
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by speedgraflex »

Eduard Profile 1/3

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Eduard Profile 2/3

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Eduard Profile 3/3

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I do think Eduard’s profile is worth considering, at least. I have a feeling this may be more Crandall than Japo in interpretation.
Bruce / SPEEDGRAFLEX
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jkim
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by jkim »

Thank you for the Eduard profiles, Bruce! Always helpful to have profiles of all four views. I'm guessing that Eduard's color call-outs are based on the JaPo interpretation. Crandall's is adamant about having no RLM 81 and JaPo is equally insistent that Yellow 10 had, at one point, an overall RLM 81 scheme with the 81 extending underneath the forward edge of the wings. Another difference in the two interpretations is that JaPo calls out the mottling on the cowling in front of the windscreen as 82 over the dark color (81 or 83) as shown in the Eduard call-outs and Crandall's color analysis points to the mottle being a light color (RLM 75) showing through a dark overspray (RLM 83). I still have no idea who's right or wrong but it seems like both authorities have peculiar "preferences" when it comes to their color choices.

I was comparing the kit exhausts with the Quickboost resin versions. I started cleaning the sprue attachments and one thing led to another... I ended up hollowing out all of the kit exhausts. The hollowed ends are noticeably deeper than the dimples on the Quickboost set, which will be put back in the aftermarket box for a future build.
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I took another look at the Aires wheel wells. Some people over at LSP threw out some options that I could consider and I thought I should give one of them a try. For me, keeping the long bulkhead in correct relation to the wheel well was important so that the cannon mount on the bulkhead lined up with the hole for the gun barrel in the wheel well. So keep that a constant, the only other way to effectively increase the width of the wheel assembly was to cut it. I chose to cut it in half. The kit gun barrels are standing in for what will ultimately be brass tubing.
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The wheel wells are then placed into the lower wing using the gun barrel as the datum. This results in three small gaps but they really shouldn't be noticeable. The biggest effort about going in this direction was removing the wide casting block on the wheel wells... whatta pain.
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With the Blue Tack holding the wheel wells in place, I tape the upper wing halves into place. The gun barrels are correctly positioned.
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The gap in the center is the most noticeable but remember... there is a central exterior piece yet to be added.
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The Grey Matter part, with the single ammo chute fits very nicely (surprise!) and blocks the view into the wheel well. Now the gap is hardly noticeable.
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I think this is a good compromise to get the Aires wheel well to work. My only concern is the landing gear actuating arm. Since the distance between the landing gear mounting location and the wheel well has been increased, there is a good chance that the actuator will be too short. But that shouldn't be too hard to correct.

Oh... and the sculpting process has started.
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speedgraflex
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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw 190D-13 Yellow 10

Post by speedgraflex »

Jerry’s in this video—



Skip to slightly over the 3 minute mark, I believe. I keep wondering about the styrene pieces you are using — are those more as a guide to keep the edges level? I have this photo of a “Kangaroo” with what I think of as a fitted cowling similar to what you are making, a very smooth finish, maybe two panels...

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I am tracking your surgery with the central spar; an interesting solution. Cheers.
Bruce / SPEEDGRAFLEX
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