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Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 2:08 pm
by Medicman71
Very nice!
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:12 pm
by jkim
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 6:41 pm
by jeaton01
The shoulder belts in the Stearman were about 2 inches wide, the lap belts were about 3 inches. They were government surplus of course. So in 1/32 that would be 1/16 and 3/32. Can't help you with the WW II Japanese stuff, didn't fly those! Yes, they often do seem wide, especially in 1/72.
Beautiful cockpit!
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:07 pm
by Floki
Them belts sure look good in the cockpit. I often wonder about German belts looking over scale when installed.
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 8:53 pm
by Stikpusher
Beautiful work John!
I agree with your thoughts about the harness and how much that they really take up on a seat. But we do make our scale modeling compromises. Representation vs scale fidelity.
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 6:06 am
by LyleW
I demand to see those little, tiny people you have building this! I don’t see how it is humanly possible. Someday, I’d love to see a video of this happening.
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:50 am
by BlackSheep214
Very nice!
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:22 pm
by jkim
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 4:31 pm
by Medicman71
Man those rivets look great. One of these days I'll learn how to do that.
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai
Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2020 5:02 pm
by jkim
Rivets are pretty easy to do... just time consuming!
After the starboard side was sanded, I did the same to the port fuselage half.
One thing bothers me about the riveting process. All of the debris from the wet and dry sanding gets stuck into the rivets and by the time the multiple layers of paint go on, some of rivets get filled up and won't hold a wash. Does anyone know a good way to remove sanding debris from holes and crevices? I've tried soaking the parts in water but that doesn't seem to dislodge the stuff very well.
With the riveting done, the fuselage halves can be glued together. Hasegawa wants to ensure the best possible fit between the wings and fuselage, especially since the fuselage is so wide at the base, so they provide not one or two but three internal bulkheads.
Those bulkheads, along with the sleeve for the tail stabilizers, make the fuselage come together very positively. Fit has been uniformly excellent on this kit.
Fit of the horizontal stabilizers was improved by a little trimming along the contact joint of the stabilizers. I left the interlocking tabs alone.
The fuselage seams were cleaned up with a bit of Mr Surfacer 1000 and some sanding. Afterwards, the fuselage assembly was given a washing in my kitchen sink. I performed a dry fit of the major components to check things. This gives one sense of the purposeful proportions and lines of this fighter. The wings, both upper and lower, need to be riveted still.
Similar to the Tamiya Corsair, Hasegawa provides two rear canopy pieces. One is designed to show the canopy in the closed position. The top edges between the sliding canopy and rear part are flush.
The second piece takes into account the thickness of the plastic parts when placing the canopy in the open position. When closed, there is a step between the two parts.
I personally don't think the difference is very noticeable and choosing the second allows me to keep the sliding part unglued and posing it either closed or open.