I know you specifically asked for Joe’s advice, but I would pick up this set from their US dealer and give it a good try out. It’s a brilliant color system for car models (many slot car model builders use this). For example:
mostrich wrote:Zero Paints need a tough primer because they're the hottest modeling paint you can get. In the end they're just car lacquer paint filled in small bottles. They can eat styrene and are able to suck the dye out of colored styrene. I've seen pictures where they even ate through acrylic primer. Maybe there's a reaction with the softener of the plastic involved.
But it all depends on the quality of the styrene and how old the kit is. Modern injection molded kits should be more resistant.
True. I often wondered what kind of reaction if applied on enamel based primer. Only one way to find out is by testing.
“Who controls the skies, controls the fate of this Earth”
Author unknown- 352nd Fighter Group, Blue-Nosed Bastards of Bodney
“Send one plane it’s a sortie; send two planes it’s a flight; send four planes it’s a test of airpower. - Richard Kohn
I mean this in the most constructive way possible.....DONT do that! Lacquer based paint will destroy enamel based paints. Been there and done that. Try it on a spare piece of plastic or another test model. I'll shed some more light on this after I get home tonight. But I can say this....been there....done that.
mustang1989 wrote:I mean this in the most constructive way possible.... DON’T do that! Lacquer based paint will destroy enamel based paints. Been there and done that. Try it on a spare piece of plastic or another test model. I'll shed some more light on this after I get home tonight. But I can say this....been there....done that.
I know the builder using the same paints—use their primer.
After much deliberation, I have decided not to get the Starsky & Hutch Torino Red. Why? First, Zero Paint is expensive - $11 a bottle plus s&h. Then on top of that, I’ll have to buy their brand of primer. It adds up when you think about it.
It’s easier for me to get Bright red instead. I’m not worried about accuracy issues but I do want to have fun in the process. I’d rather spend $3 - $4 for a rattle can of bright red than $11 for a single bottle of red I probably won’t use again.
“Who controls the skies, controls the fate of this Earth”
Author unknown- 352nd Fighter Group, Blue-Nosed Bastards of Bodney
“Send one plane it’s a sortie; send two planes it’s a flight; send four planes it’s a test of airpower. - Richard Kohn
Sounds like it's gonna work out just fine for you Tom. If you decant it into a paint bottle and shoot it through an airbrush you'll be A-OK bubba. Just remember to let the paint "gas out" in the paint jar for a couple of minutes so you don't get any nasty air bubbles in the paint.
Well, I’ve never decanted paint from a rattle can before. Knowing my attempt, I’d have more red on me than I can put in a glass bottle for airbrushing.
“Who controls the skies, controls the fate of this Earth”
Author unknown- 352nd Fighter Group, Blue-Nosed Bastards of Bodney
“Send one plane it’s a sortie; send two planes it’s a flight; send four planes it’s a test of airpower. - Richard Kohn
LOL! It's not that bad Tom. Put a set of latex gloves on, get a paint jar and lightly depress the spray nozzle into the jar. Yeah it's a tiny bit messy but not as bad as you think if you exercise a little control on the spray nozzle. You'll have ALOT more control shooting it through an AB.....trust me. I do this with 90% of my automotive finishes.
