SPA Modeler

Thanks guys! Moving along now... the cockpit parts have been assembled. As you can see, I installed the big fuel tanks under the cockpit as it will make placement of the cockpit tub into the fuselage a little easier. They will completely invisible after the fuselage is assembled.

jkim wrote:

- Kari

Thanks guys! Now that the cockpit tub is completed, I can glue the fuselage together. This assembly is made more complicated by the fact that it is a triangular affair... two fuselage sides AND the fuselage bottom. It made dry-fitting of the cockpit parts a headache so I'm eager to put this teepee together and move past it. One last look at the fuel tanks before they go bye-bye.


The cockpit tub fit better into the port side so I started off there. I put tube glue on all of the interior contact areas and then topped it off with Tamiya Extra Thin on the joints that I could reach from the outside.


After the left side was taken care of but not completely cured, I attached the starboard fuselage side. Now could pinch the two fuselage sides together to get a good connection.


The bottom was attached last.


I set that aside to dry. The next step in this build (per the instructions) would be the engine. Since I am replacing the kit prop with a resin prop and spinner from Henri Daehne, I wanted to make the necessary adjustments to the kit parts.


I didn't make any precise measurements but to my eye, the kit prop and spinner look pretty good.



Where the H.D. prop outshines the competition is the surface quality and the amazing details found on the prop hub and spinner.



Once the prop is assembled, you won't be able to see much of the hub detail, unfortunately. Since the Ta152H has a cannon firing through the spinner, I won't be able to fashion a pop-off spinner using magnets like I did on my last Fw190D-9 build.


The main modification to the kit parts is to enlarge the holes for the prop shaft. H.D. includes a 3mm diameter brass tube and the kit parts need to accommodate this wider shaft.



Once I have verified that the brass shaft is now accommodated, I can set this aside and move on with the build.

After the fuselage was assembled, I wanted to check the fit of the gun/engine cowling. This large piece has internal ribbing and unfortunately, has sink marks on the exterior side corresponding to those ribs.


Strategic application of Mr Surfacer should address the sink marks.


Jumping over to the wings, the bottoms of which need modification to backdate this H-1 kit into an H-0.


I created masks using the Silhouette Portrait cutter to help position the new access panels and panel lines. It's not just for paint masks!


I've sprayed the proposed panels with a light coat of Mr Surfacer. This now gives me a guide on where to eradicate existing panel lines and where the new panels and ports should go.


In preparation of the imminent filling operation, I've taken a stab at making a batch of sprue goo (actually white sheet styrene).


The fuselage assembly went together fairly well, requiring a small amount of filler on the fuselage spine. What are the odds that the Revi 16 gun sight gets knocked off before I can attach the windshield?

You're on a roll! That prop is very nice, does he make anything for 1/48 scale? The body also came together very well, shame that them fuel tanks will be hidden they look very nice.

Fantastic progress John - you're the man with PE.

Absolutely incredible!

Medicman71 wrote: Absolutely incredible!

Copy that. Unbelievable...!!!!

Your builds are always a sheer pleasure to watch come together. Brilliant work!

Thanks guys! Appreciate the input!

Floki wrote:You're on a roll! That prop is very nice, does he make anything for 1/48 scale? The body also came together very well, shame that them fuel tanks will be hidden they look very nice.

As far as I know, Henri only does 1/32 Luftwaffe props. His work is fabulous... I've never seen resin so smooth and shiny as his.

portman wrote:Fantastic progress John - you're the man with PE.

I actually dislike working with PE. It's great for certain things but I find it difficult to work with. For a cockpit upgrade, I'd much prefer resin than brass.

After dry-fitting the instrument panel hood, I figured out that the IP is set too far back and will have to use additional spaces to push it forward. So I've already pulled the IP out for now.