Airfix A01005 / Mitsubishi A6M2b

[speedgraflex]

I figured it this way: time spent carving new panel lines plus cost of a vacform canopy (the Airfix canopy is a single piece) would be more than the cost of a new kit. It is the same Mitsubishi A6M2b ZERO and the same aircraft markings in 1:72. Cheers!

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya- ... er--155180

[jeaton01]

If the kit to be built is made by Tamiya or Hasegawa, in the scale you want, the cost of the kit is usually not something you will feel bad about once you've got it in the display case. If I add up the cost of the paint and glue the cost of the finished model isn't that different.

[speedgraflex]

Thanks, John—wise words. Honestly I consider any model I build an investigation of construction and technical issues, so I am not displeased with the cost of the kit. I want to use the kit as a springboard to becoming a better modeler. In this particular case, I want to investigate scribing at 1/72. I feel if I get well versed at it in this scale, I will be even better at scribing in 1/48 and 1/32. That’s my theory at this point.

Not happy with the mistake I made here (red arrow). Time for putty or CA. I think the lines I engraved are more realistic (more in keeping with the actual aircraft). These make the injection molded details look artificial. I also tried a technique that I miniaturized for the scale. I read about the “scalpel carving” technique in many a review build of WWII aircraft. This carving technique creates a slightly irregular surface where the metal surfaces meet; more of a tensioning effect. These were, after all, fitted panels. Using one of Radu’s sharp tips, I tried that technique out here.

Actual recovered aircraft during restoration : tail assembly



The above image comes from an interesting restoration article. If anyone is interested, I will add the link.

[jkim]

So a pause on this one until the Tamiya kit arrives? I would think scribing in 1/72 would be hardest to achieve realistically. 1/32 isn't very hard since it doesn't have to be as fine as 1/72.

[Stikpusher]

True. In 1/72, in almost every case, not matter how finely scribed a line, it will be overscale. 1/32 (and larger scales) offer the best canvas for recessed detailing. 1/48 is somewhere in between.

[speedgraflex]

John, Yes. Something like that. I prepared for a WWI Fokker project in both 1/72 and 1/48 to begin in tandem with Carlos next month. Then I went on a modest spending spree, purchasing 1:72 Kittyhawk/Warhawk kits from Trumpeter and Airfix, followed by the 1:48 Tamiya P-38. I opened the box of the Trumpeter and liked the exterior tooling very much for a 1:72 kit. The interior... Not so much. The Airfix kit has a much better interior. I am still debating how to proceed. The Tamiya P-38 is gorgeous, but I don’t feel ready for it yet. Anyway, the real reason I seem to be at an impasse is due to exhaustion on an illustration project. With 15 drawings per page and 22 pages, I am burnt out.

Carlos! Hello! I did try to do the other side of the fuselage last night. Another night of mixed results and emotions.

[Stikpusher]

Hello Bruce. If the modeling is not relaxing you after a stressful workday, take a break from that too and do something that you know will relax you, whatever that is.

[speedgraflex]

Thanks, Carlos. I’m thinking about your advice.

[BlackSheep214]

Or concentrate on building and finishing one model kit at a time and forget the rest. Pick one to resume on and refrain from touching the others. Starting too many kits prior to paint or even assembly could be the reason.

[speedgraflex]

Thanks, Tom. I appreciate your advice. I will definitely consider what you suggest. Also I am thinking about simply building a kit minus any documentation to see if documenting is affecting me or not. All the best!