SPA Modeler

Anyone want to fill this in?

Drybrushing is an older technique used to enhance raised and edge detail, or to weather surfaces.

Drybrushing involves loading a brush with the barest amount of paint possible. I get to this state by first wiping a paint-loaded brush on some fabric to get most if the paint off, then on post-it notes until it's almost invisible.

There are two main drybrushing "techniques" - sweeping and stippling. With sweeping, you just "sweep" the brush across the part's surface. The barely-loaded brush will deposit tiny amounts of paint onto raised areas, leaving the rest alone.

With stippling, you quickly make light stabbing motions. This is particularly useful for depicting chipping on seats, rudder pedals, wing roots and the like. It can also be used to create "dustiness".

I always drybrush with Model Master enamel paint and it seems uniquely well-suited to the task. My standard go-to color is Model Master Dunkelgrau, but other tan-gray colors tend to work as well, such as SAC Bomber Tan. For metal, I'll use Model Master Aluminum, and sometimes supplement with Model Master Metalizer shades (Magnesium being a favorite).

Old technique - but still very helpful, especially if its combined with washes, shading (if you feel the need for it) etc.

In my experience, too, Enamel colors have better results, but that doesnt meen that acrylics arent possible at all. Like so often trial and error Id say. It works with almost every color.

The "stippling" Doogs mentioned can be varied by using a sponge instead of a brush - it will cause irregular shapes. Just make sure that the color isnt too thin and use a sponge that has no lints in it. Doing Figures and dioramas most of the time, thats helpful for the following tasks for example:

-rough textures like highlighting earth, cloth etc
-if you sweep the sponge, you can create stone effects like marble etc
-wooden textures


etc.


PS: Some weeks ago I saw a new product line from GamesWorkshop called "Drybrush color". Those are a bit sticky and.... useless. Enamel and "normal" acrylics work far better andcost less. Just my 5 cents.

For paint brush modelers thers another application for drybrush, blend colors between camo contous: i use humbrols enamels for best results (but model masters too i think) finishing the two main colors , painting colors again one of colors on borders (best the lighteen) and drybushe the darker color on the other


Mixing the two ways, sweep and stippling

Masterful brush work BSYamato, that just goes to show that an "old" technique can be very useful.

Yup. One does not have to follow the latest fads to achieve excellent results. Master the basics, of which dry brushing is one, and you will be just fine.

Stikpusher wrote:Yup. One does not have to follow the latest fads to achieve excellent results. Master the basics, of which dry brushing is one, and you will be just fine.

On the other hand: I do love the black base fad!

I still dry brush. It works!