A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

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KennyX
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by KennyX »

jkim wrote:Primer as a filler/putty check - yeah, that is pretty important but I can usually restrict it to the area of concern without shooting the whole model with it. Doesn't pose a problem with contrast since most model kits are molded in a neutral grey.

If you spray some white or light grey on the wings before the yellow, it should be fine.

Thank you John! I’ll proceed that way.
Kenny X
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KennyX
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by KennyX »

Alright lads! Slow, steady progress on my Zero!

Lets’s dive on in, with a special shout-out to all you fellas -especially our friend John Kim- who recommended Solvaset last time Inhad decal problems. I say “especially John Kim” because he reminded me about that during my StuG build. So that said, check out this IP:

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Holy crap that solvaset ain’t no joke!

Those dial faces on each decal sure snugged down nicely into their respective recesses! I’m impressed. And I figured out what I did wrong when I used the Solvaset on my StuG’s decals- I didn’t use enough.

I was worried it’d eat my paint, when I used it on the StuG. And knowing how hot it is, I figured one thin coat would do.

NOPE.

So here’s what I did on the IP.

I used a small, thin brush, dipped it in Solvaset, and then wiped the excess off four times on the opening of the jar, then painted it onto the decal. After that, I’d leave it alone for a while. Then check on it. Then, using the same methodology, I applied a bit more. Then I’d wait. Then apply more, same way. That’s the results of six separate, thin coats, spread out over like, 9 hours.

I’m a happy guy right now. That IP will get some black where needed, as well as drybrushing, but so far I think it looks every bit as nice as a PE IP.

Okay, what else? Oh. I got my BOOYAH! GREEN on the cockpit floor, seat, and aft bulkhead, and chipped them minimally, and attached the aft bulkhead to the floor:

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It’s like a really cool, green barka lounger. Back me up here.

And the oxygen bottles have been painted, weathered, and installed:

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Kenny X
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speedgraflex
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by speedgraflex »

FANTASTIC
Make more models!
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KennyX
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by KennyX »

It feels really good to be happy and building an aircraft again. Especially one with a cool, green cockpit. Those are my favorite.
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Medicman71
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by Medicman71 »

The cockpit looks great! Really liking the instrument panel! :shoutout:
Mike

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jkim
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by jkim »

Dude... you've got those instrument panel gauges PERFECTLY centered. So hard to do! Solvaset is some mean, decal-whooping solution that's for sure. I love how it crumples up the decal in mid-process... almost like it is beating the crap out of it and then the decal lays down in complete submission afterwards.
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KennyX
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by KennyX »

Mr. Medicman,

Thank you sir!

John,

Yessir, it literally beats the decal into submission! I love it! Now, one question- will it disintegrate Cartograf decals? Their film is super thin usuall. I’m betting it only takes two, maybe three thin coats to get those to settle in, but I wanted to check first ;-)
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jkim
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by jkim »

I THINK it should be ok with Cartograf, which are thin but I've never had a problem with decals ripping. But in my experience, Micro Sol works great with Cartograf and I would start there. And before using Solvaset on the Cartograf, I'd run a quick test to make sure.
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KennyX
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by KennyX »

Groovy. I will-do! My Tauchpanzer’s decals are Cartograf and I don’t want to ruin them. I’ll test, and use the soft stuff first.
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jkim
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Re: A6M3-3A Zero Fighter, Maj. Saburo Shindo

Post by jkim »

Try to make sure your model surface is smooth before you apply the decals. Either a gloss coat or you can buff down any surface irregularities with Micromesh or even super fine sandpaper. That helps "suck" the decal down onto the model surface and avoid silvering.
John aka JKim
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