Pacific Coast Models 1/32 Fw 190A-1. Black 13. Belgium, 1941

[LyleW]

Well, that could be nothing or a major issue. I do have faith that you will handle it and make it go away!

[jkim]

I think this was accounted for earlier, no?



Referring to the IP overhang, not the red-circled areas.

[speedgraflex]

Eduard’s lower IP was much larger in all directions than the kit styrene, so I was also thinking I have that panel off center a mm. Thank you so much for your support, Lyle and thank you, John for reminding me that I did fit this into the fuselage, and it does fit.

[Floki]

Being a short run kit it doesn't surprise me that it might be off. Not sure if Eduard made it for this kit or just reused from another 190 kit.

[speedgraflex]

Thanks so much!

I keep forgetting that this kit is short run! I consider my forgetting a complement to Pacific Coast Models. The PE by Eduard was stamped for Pacific Coast Models, but I believe you are spot on—these pieces were selected from another kit. It is much better to have a part that is too large then one that is too small, though. Trouble is, I set the black background PE with two small dots of white glue and it seems to have really “settled in” place. My thinking is I would like to shift the background “a touch,” but I do not know if that piece will slide free. Sometimes if you leave a temporary set job in place long enough it becomes a permanent one.

Natural light



“To Do” tonight

1. Placards on lower IP
2. Lower IP adjustment if necessary
3. Order Luftwaffe IP dials if feasible
4. Firing cable to the control stick

[Floki]

White glue is a lot tougher than people give it credit for. That pit keeps looking better every time I see it, you’re doing a great job Bruce.

[speedgraflex]

Clint—Thank you for your support. I tried out a coiled cable last night attached from the control stick but I have to redo it.

[jkim]

It might be difficult to get a coil small enough to be in-scale. I use the smallest bit from my micro drill bit to do the tension springs on my aerial wires and the cable on the control stick is a much finer coil than the aerial tension spring.

Did you find your circular punch set? You can also punch circular masks to paint the colored outlines on the instrument dials. It's easy since you only need one mask for each dial... just make it a tad bigger than the hole in the outer instrument panel.

[speedgraflex]

Interesting that you use a drill bit, John! You are exactly right. My first coiled cable version was wrapped around a wire extracted from a Ralph’s green grocery tie. The diameter was far too large. Right now this looks like a hydraulic hose and not an electrical cable,



I am missing an entire box of supplies—some small tools including scriber and cutter blades... all of my plasticard (I really miss that) and the punch. This is entirely my fault, which makes the predicament more frustrating.

[jkim]

If you can't make a fine enough coil, a plain wire would be acceptable IMO.

The Airscale decals may or may not help. It seems like they only give one size of the colored rings and that means they will only work for a certain size of instruments. I know from experience that the Airscale and MDC instrument gauge decals aren't an exact fit for all kits.