SPA Modeler

Awesome job on the mottle!

Thank you Brent.

Got the decals on and have started on weathering too.
I have some Flory washes but I use them differently then how they tell you to use them. Instead of just washing it all over the entire model, I use it as a pin wash.




I used dark wash for the top surfaces and light dirt for the underside. The camera doesn't fully show the wash on the underside.

Next I really liked the results of the salt fading I got on the Dora 190 so I decided to try it again but this time using more salt that I felt was lacking in the last build.
Don't forget to add just a bit of soap to break the surface tension of the water even on a flat coated surface the water will bead up without it.


The prop was airbrushed Alclad Dialuminium then two layers of hairspray followed by AK Real Colors RLM 70. After that dried I used a stiff brush to scrub some of the RLM 70 off. Photos show that the tips of the blades on the backside of the prop wore more than the rest of the prop so that's where I focused most of the chipping. Then both sides of the prop got coated with salt too.


That's where everything sits for right now. After the salt dries I will spray a very light coat of grey over the model.
Thanks for looking in!
Skol!

This build just get more and more exciting!

I do also prefer more pin-wash over "soaking" everything

Very interested to see the result of your salt weathering technique! I can however already imagine the result !

- Kari

Eager to see this finished! Looks aggressive to me, but I’m a big chicken when it comes to this. You have not disappointed in the past.

Camo looks great and the wash and salt fade will be good effects. Just a note, you don't have to add soap to the water on a flat coat. It may bead initially but a few brush strokes back and forth will create a nice uniform film of water...

Good to know John especially on more delicate finishes that soap might react with. I guess I didn't work it enough before adding a drop of soap to my water.

speedgraflex wrote:My first thought was you should have salted the primary factory finish and left the night fighter overpainting as what it was: splashed and bashed on as the role changed, buuut I can also see your desire to create an atmospheric look. One thing I am learning about the Fokker is how filthy it became and how quickly its canvas darkened from oil and mud and water. I would be remiss if I did not point out my first response to you, though.

So I'm taking Bruce's advice, he really does have a eye for these things. After I finally got all the salt brushed off the surface I got the Tamiya Nato Black back out and airbrushed over the black spots again. I also picked up these two figure sets and one of them has a ground crewman with a spray gun so that's going to be the diorama, the crewman just finishing up blacking out the markings.





I still have some fuzz to pick off the model from desalting it.
I need to pick up some more wood so I can start on the base but I'm getting close to the finish line now.
Thanks for looking in!
Skol!

The next video

Oh man, that will be cool! A Dino with a get out of jail free card on paint!