SPA Modeler

Stikpusher wrote:You ought to be able to go to the original post and edit the title there

Thank you! I was wondering about the posts that followed after that one, though—it would require a post by post edit I think—but you are absolutely right, Carlos. Happy Hump Day and congratulations to you for finishing “Twelve Days Build.”

Happy Hump Day to you too my friend. And thanks. It was fun to do that challenge.

I’m not sure what you’re trying to do with the edit. And I am no guru for that sort of thing in any way shape or form... I just muddle thru...

The spinner looks really good! On cowling, I can't tell if that's green overspray on grey plastic or grey overspray on the green paint. There seems to be a little bit of grain in the overspray that might indicate a thicker than ideal paint mix. Through an airbrush, we should be aiming toward a totally grain-free finish. I often get a grainy spit initially that I'll adjust by adding thinner to the cup. I try not to commit paint to the model until the paint is coming out the way I want. That's why post-its are so useful!

I just did a test on my Red One post, changing the original title to Red 1. All of the responses remained "Red One" in the subject heading so I guess you'd have to change the reply titles one post at a time. And then you'd have to ask separate posters to do the same to each of their responses. Not worth the effort, IMO. Change the title in your original title and then any responses that are made after that change will have the modified title in their header but previous responses will be unchanged. It kind of marks where in the build the change happened, no?

John, Thank you for your comments, thoughts and titling test. I have not painted anything in awhile so I was pretty rusty. I was also anxious about seeing how the Frog’s plastic would react to lacquer. I know I should have let that thought go, and chill out, but I was wondering if the plastic would react the way Dragon plastic reacted to enamels. I sprayed the primer on too heavily as a result of being nervous. Then I cleaned the ab and tried running Blackgreen through it. After those passes I just... something was weird. Probably me. Luckily these lacquers cure fast. So. I made a frisket from a piece of drawing paper, punched a hole in the center and placed the hub through it. Then I sprayed some Dark Green. My technique is to begin polishing as the paint cures. A little distilled water to cut back the degassing process and decrease the friction. Then I opened the tube of oil and cleared a small swipe on a paper napkin—blotted the sides and tip—then polished it out.

I feel like I just went into a confessional booth. Wow. Thanks for reading. Everyone here sets a high bar for smooth finishes. Most times I am in awe of what the gang here produces. I am trying to be a little more at ease, but that takes practice.

Let me look at this once again... to remember.



This reminds me of when I worked part time assisting an artist. Every time he finished a painting, he sighed and lit up a cigar. His whole attitude was relaxed and happy. Then I worked for a high strung, neurotic architect who would take his team to a deli and consume copious amounts of corned beef when a project was delivered... no cigar, no corned beef yet for me. Personally I prefer a pipe and grilled salmon anyway.

Title/Subject Change:



Dedicated to Kari Saarni, fellow modeler and good friend. You are a source of encouragement and inspiration as well.

I’m more a pipe man myself, but I like corned beef a lot. Salmon is good too. But though salmon is tasty, it isn’t as fast as the red fish I catch myself.

I gotta get back out there. John knows what I’m talking about.

Anyhow, I can’t offer any advice on shooting enamels. That’s voodoo I’m too scared to work with. But your spinner looks good and you seem to have gotten that all sorted out. As to subject, I like the looks of the one you’ve picked out, above. I think it’s lovely.

Thanks, Ken. Sincerely. Well the Gunze is lacquer, and reminds me of shop class and afternoons spent working with my Dad on his projects, but I have enamels in the arsenal, too. I still believe the venerable Testors Military Models set is one of the great model painting deals around. Wonderful enamel. Doesn’t quite have the same feel as Humbrol. But. Still. Wonderful stuff.

Building this subject will require a semi-metallic finish underneath. Painted dope. Cool. I think giving silver a polishing down to reduce the shine might be the ticket.




“Doped fabric has been used on the fuselages, wings and control surfaces of aircraft from the earliest aircraft of the Wright brothers and Bleriot through to enthusiasts’ planes still being manufactured today. Doping refers to the application of a tautening medium to the fabric stretched over the aircraft frame. This results in a tightly stretched surface with aerodynamic attributes.

Initially, the main material used to dope fabric surfaces was a lacquer based on the material cellulose nitrate. Some of you may be more familiar with cellulose nitrate as “gun cotton”, an explosive propellant used in the same manner as gun powder. Herein lies one of the main difficulties associated with the use of cellulose nitrate to coat the fabric surfaces of aircraft. It is highly flammable. To be in an aircraft with a wooden frame and cellulose nitrate coated fabric on the fuselage, wings, tailplane and control surfaces, fronted by a high temperature engine belching smoke, flames and fuel is to place oneself in a hazardous position. Additionally, cellulose nitrate dope is soluble in aviation fuel. Due to the proximity of powered aircraft to aviation fuel and the possiblilty of spillage, this resulted in significant extra maintenance and the potential failure of the doped surfaces. Despite these difficulties, cellulose nitrate was widely used from the dawn of powered flight through to the 1950s.”

speedgraflex wrote:Title/Subject Change:



Dedicated to Kari Saarni, fellow modeler and good friend. You are a source of encouragement and inspiration as well.

Icm lately boxed this version, in mind ti get one soon. Also wishing to try their do-215

Whoops! I misspoke!

Lacquer. That I understand a bit better. I use lacquer primer and clears sometimes too.

Now, what you posted about dope is fascinating stuff. And I recon what better way to get that down than by using a lacquer of some type. It makes sense.

As to enamels, I like that Testor’s Model Master stuff. It dry brushes like a dream for me. And it smells good too. Reminds me of my childhood, brush painting that silly Airwolf model and totally botching it.

BsYamato wrote:Icm lately boxed this version, in mind ti get one soon. Also wishing to try their do-215

Thank you for the wonderful information, Silvio! I had no idea ICM made a boxing with FAF decals. This one I wanted....

https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/hnair ... ier-do17z2