SPA Modeler

Thanks, Clint. I actually build mostly in 1:48. And I’m still relatively new to this, I’ve only been doing it for a little over a year. So there’s a lot that I’m still ironing out in terms of how I like to operate. For me personally, doing a lot of fine detail like cockpit wiring in 1:48 doesn’t appeal to me. But if other people do it- awesome, go for it.

Conversely, I’m flirting with the idea of adding rivet detail. John inspired that one. It’s so nice looking the way he executes it.

It’s a process and my mind may always change later. What I try to do it come up with a consistent method that works for a few projects and focus on that, then add/modify later.

Like with old Zeke here. I’ll be airbrushing the insignias, stripes, whatever I can get away with really. We’ll see how that goes.

I was happy with how the chipping turned out, but I ended up deciding it just needed a little bit more. Some chips in the middle of the panel’s to go with the chipping along the panel lines, and some very small chips. Here’s what I got:





I think this is a great stopping point in terms of chipping on the cowling.

This will rest and in a day or two I’ll seal it all with clear.

I’m going to start masking the canopy and windscreen, and also address the gunsight and turtle deck.

Looks about right for Japanese WW2 craft. I wonder if anyone has ever researched or looked up, why their paint seemed to chip away so much?

I did some research concerning that, and the answers seem to indicate a late war primer shortage. And according to our pal Carlos, the early war aircraft were built and painted quite well and many of them had the green oversprayed in the field. Paraphrasing of course. Plus they operated in harsh conditions in the Pacific. I’ve seen photos of derelict Zeros and holy cow, they got beat-up!


Seriously, how could I not go for this?

Whoops. Accidentally posted twice.

Bruce,

Lunch is sacrosanct so I appreciate you taking the time on your break to stop in with the good word you shared on this. Thank you.

My previous Corsair wasn’t at all a failure in the sense that doing that project helped me distill what I’d learned about paint chipping. If I hadn’t done that project this wouldn’t have been possible. I’m glad I did that.

As to the painting and construction and weathering all working together that you mentioned- THANK YOU! I’ve been taking great care to make these things form a cohesive whole which expresses my vision for this and I’m happy that another modeler I respect gets that. That makes me feel good!

I had a nice detailed reply for this ready but then my iPad zapped it before I could post it due to the fun of bouncing back and forth between tabs to add photos. Grrrrr...
so here is the short and sweet version with no photos...
That photo above is immediately post war at the beginning of the occupation. Those are late war aircraft produced under hardship conditions. The M3 versions of the Zero were produced from spring 1942 until mid to late 1943 under much better conditions. Workmanship and supplies were much better because of conditions. Photos of in service aircraft, and even captured derelict wrecks were fairly well maintained. Even if battle damage is accounted for.

I want to send a shout-out to our friend Mr. John Kim!

I was looking at the photographs of my cowling, and while I was happy with the chipping, I was thinking about how it needed something else, to push it over the cliff.

I was considering the stark nature of the chips on the fresh black paint. I had originally intended to take care of that with the oil dot fading as is custom, but that didn’t appeal to me. Here’s why- this aircraft was operating out there in the Pacific islands and it seems to me that there’d be abrasion on the paint along with the chipping. Coral dust in the air, salt, all driven back by that propeller.

So I added it. And here’s why I want to thank John: earlier in the thread he mentioned that microfiber cloth can be used for chipping, too!

I remembered John’s wise advice, broke out my microfiber cloth pads, and set about slowly and carefully scuffing the paint. I used three different coarsnesses for this job, eventually stopping with 12,0000, smoothing it all outnin the direction of airflow.

Here’s what I got:





Under harsh light:






I’m very happy with the results! Thank you John for mentioning that microfiber cloth method! It sure did get the job done here! Much appreciated sir!

Based on what Carlos wrote about paint condition, I found these images of the third pilot in the “Cleanup Crew,” Nishizawa, and his A6M3... 22? I remember thinking the Tamiya box art Ken posted on page 1 of his thread was based on this photo.



The paint scheme is fascinating in its utilitarian patchiness: the prop is pretty much bare ass metal, too.