SPA Modeler

Medicman—I will add captions in a bit! Edit: Done.

Note on the silver base coat for the engine:

I am adapting this technique from the work of Naoki Kobayashi, whose "Metal Work Finish" Mustang is pretty incredible.

To quote his work on the engine painting: "I painted according to a method that I personally favor, where I start by putting a base coat of super fine metallic silver paint on all of the engine parts, which not only acts as a primer, but also reveals the flaws of the parts. Next, I painted a coat of semi-glossy black. As usual, I painted gradations using a thinly diluted black. If you paint each part starting paler at the edges and getting darker toward the center, you can achieve a clean, realistic finish without having to go over it later with drybrushing."

speedgraflex wrote: To quote his work on the engine painting: "I painted according to a method that I personally favor, where I start by putting a base coat of super fine metallic silver paint on all of the engine parts, which not only acts as a primer, but also reveals the flaws of the parts. Next, I painted a coat of semi-glossy black. As usual, I painted gradations using a thinly diluted black. If you paint each part starting paler at the edges and getting darker toward the center, you can achieve a clean, realistic finish without having to go over it later with drybrushing."

- Kari

1/32 Mustang Engine by Naomi Kobayashi




The results...are incredible.

Incredible indeed !

Wouh!

- Kari

KennyX,

My Dad the materials testing engineer (note must ask Mostrich if he is in a similar field) was into machines, recording devices and all the really cool Sixties toys that ran on electricity including slot cars and trains. I mention this because he used to restore old cars and motorcycles. He taught me how to sand and paint so coming on board SPAM a year ago I really learned from everyone. I didn’t know what Tamiya tape was, for example.

My Dad believed a hand sanded finish has the greatest control, adding a handle or backing introduced errors that were hard to correct. The flip side of hand sanding is having to be careful with squared off edges. I only mention these fairly obvious things and a massive preamble that I find myself liking the following:

1. Tamiya Abrasive Sheets
2. Second choice/backup: Alpha Abrasive Sheets
3. Gunze Polishing Cloths

It was Mustang Joe who taught and still teaches me patience, John Kim taught and still teaches me surface preparation and ultimately the road to painting camouflage, Carlos Cisneros who taught and teaches me proper assembly techniques, research and painting, ditto Mark “The Duke,” and our Europeans—Kari, Thomas, Torben, Cherrylock (dude must do at least one step by step build, with photos!), Borg and Marius (1/72 wizards). There are others: BlackSheep, Fermis, Medic, and I am waiting for Scruffy’s Cougar.

And I just learned "Metal Work Finish" from Bruce. I can relate to this concept of using highly thinned paint solutions in gradual layers since I use a similar technique to apply my camo finishes.

ENGINE SUPPORT

I mocked up the engine compartment; there is no support other than the propeller shaft. So it is time to scratch build a plank at least, as well as cut out actual mounts. I knew this was gonna happen (See illustration 2).

I think you’ll actually have some support with the exhaust stacks onto the sides as well.

Stikpusher wrote:I think you’ll actually have some support with the exhaust stacks onto the sides as well.

Whoa! What! I did not think about that. Makes sense. The exhaust stacks are shrouded, so they are contained in a rectangular box. I am thinking I will add a base based on what could be there, because I was toying with the idea of leaving the top cowling piece off, as well as depicting the ammo loading bays propped open... so I may need to make the framing piece that is underneath the cowling... the piece framing the exhausts.

Muchas gracias, amigo!!