Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
- speedgraflex
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Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Excellent, really! Is it possible to make separate batches by removing the blades from the original piece? Would that work??
Make more models!
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Separate blades? Sure. Tomorrow or Thursday. I will get back to it. I may have enough to make up the eight props between kit pieces and these.
Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for the kind words.
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..
- speedgraflex
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Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Notes just in case
Amazing casting resin brand / Alumilite HS3 (you already have)
The technique requires making a molding box, (Lego Blocks work great), and then adding a 1/4 inch thick layer of modeling clay in the bottom. Use the back of a paint brush handle to poke indents into the clay next to the part. These form keying nubs that help align the finished mold halves. After this you pour the first half of the silicone material into the box to cover the master. Once the silicone has fully cured, (24 hours,) flip the mold box over, and remove the clay.
Clean off any scrap clay from the master. Now spray on a healthy coat or two of mold release agent over the silicone mold and replace the part in the mold. Make sure to completely cover the face of the silicone mold or the second half will stick to it sealing your part inside. Now mix and pour in the second half of the mold into the box and let cure overnight.
Separate the mold halves, remove the master and then, with a sharp X-Acto blade, cut in a pouring channel so you can pour in the resin. To cast a new part, tape the two mold halves together and place on a level surface with channel opening at the top. Mix and pour in your casting resin (50/50 mix).
Again... just in case. Your mileage will vary. I like your results so far! Keep going.
Amazing casting resin brand / Alumilite HS3 (you already have)
The technique requires making a molding box, (Lego Blocks work great), and then adding a 1/4 inch thick layer of modeling clay in the bottom. Use the back of a paint brush handle to poke indents into the clay next to the part. These form keying nubs that help align the finished mold halves. After this you pour the first half of the silicone material into the box to cover the master. Once the silicone has fully cured, (24 hours,) flip the mold box over, and remove the clay.
Clean off any scrap clay from the master. Now spray on a healthy coat or two of mold release agent over the silicone mold and replace the part in the mold. Make sure to completely cover the face of the silicone mold or the second half will stick to it sealing your part inside. Now mix and pour in the second half of the mold into the box and let cure overnight.
Separate the mold halves, remove the master and then, with a sharp X-Acto blade, cut in a pouring channel so you can pour in the resin. To cast a new part, tape the two mold halves together and place on a level surface with channel opening at the top. Mix and pour in your casting resin (50/50 mix).
Again... just in case. Your mileage will vary. I like your results so far! Keep going.
Make more models!
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Well, if I wen out and bought Legos...probably be a revolt in the kingdom! Well, not really. I have an ample supply of cups.
Did most of this the first first try. See earlier pics. This is a very simple “how to”, clear and concise. Thanks. I am running low on the Alumilite RTV material. I do need to make another mold as the one I, using split in the middle. It has been interesting.
Did most of this the first first try. See earlier pics. This is a very simple “how to”, clear and concise. Thanks. I am running low on the Alumilite RTV material. I do need to make another mold as the one I, using split in the middle. It has been interesting.
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Well I have to say Lyle that as a first few attempts at casting resin they ain't half bad. I reckon a few more tries and you'll have got it.

Stuart Templeton 'I may not be good but I'm slow...'
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Thank you, Thank you....I'm here all week! I've run out of the setting agent for the molding material. Not sure why, but I think there was a leak. I'll have more attempts later, when I get more.
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Just about ready for paint.

size comparison (Goose is 1/144) with the 1/72 C-54. The Goose's wingspan is a bit larger, but the fuselage is a tad smaller.

As for the props. I plan on taking the broken blades and gluing them on a piece of sprue and molding the blades separately. Cannot get the prop to mold in one piece and have managed to break a couple of the remaining complete props. The blades are just too thin. Now I know why aftermarket props are sold the way they are.

size comparison (Goose is 1/144) with the 1/72 C-54. The Goose's wingspan is a bit larger, but the fuselage is a tad smaller.

As for the props. I plan on taking the broken blades and gluing them on a piece of sprue and molding the blades separately. Cannot get the prop to mold in one piece and have managed to break a couple of the remaining complete props. The blades are just too thin. Now I know why aftermarket props are sold the way they are.
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Two great looking builds there Lyle - and they're both huge!
Stuart Templeton 'I may not be good but I'm slow...'
Re: Entex 1/200 HK1 Spruce Goose
Thanks, Stuart! I do appreciate your comments.
To make each build less crappy than the last one. Or, put another way, "Better than the last one, not as good as the next one!"..