SPA Modeler

Thanks guys!

Now it's time to start painting. I left off this summer trying to re-think my pre-shading technique. In the past, I free-handed black mottling to impart some tonal variation to the preceding camouflage colors. Basically an inverse of the popular black-basing technique. I wanted to stay with this personally-developed approach but I started experimenting with different masks to randomize the edges of my mottle pattern.

So... using a brillo pad and some artist templates, I came up with this...


This technique utilizes highly thinned mixtures of paint, applied in successive layers to build up opacity and tweak the pre-shading effects to the desired level. For the RLM 76 Light Blue, I am using AK Real Colors and the following photo is at about the 50% stage of coverage.


Eventually, the pre-shading is just barely noticeable and I stop. Keep in mind that this is just the first stage in the weathering process and I don't need the pre-shading to accomplish everything. Just enough to complement the upcoming layers.



Some pre-shading work on the drop tank...

Just a brief "general" comment;

John, I am so happy to see you back in business here!

Wonderful build also (of course) !

- Kari

Thanks Kari! It's good to be back, after such a long layoff!

Here are the RLM 76 parts after they've been given a brown pastel wash. You can now start to see the rivet detail that was added to many of the parts.


The prop blades have been painted, chipped and given a few coats of salt fading.

Stunning work! I am overwhelmed. I don't see how any of this would apply in my scale, but I am taking notes to see how I can modify some of these techniques to use in my scale.

John, it's great to see you back at the bench again like others said! Keep it coming man!

The effect you achieved with your preshading is very nice, I'm also taking notes.

Superb work John!

John, you are one tru craftsman!

Duke Maddog wrote:Stunning work! I am overwhelmed. I don't see how any of this would apply in my scale, but I am taking notes to see how I can modify some of these techniques to use in my scale.

John, it's great to see you back at the bench again like others said! Keep it coming man!

Thanks Duke! Glad to be back. I'm not sure what your scale is but I've used most of these techniques on my 1/48 scale builds. But I do feel a bit "cramped" when working on the smaller scales after working on 1/32 aircraft.

Floki wrote:The effect you achieved with your preshading is very nice, I'm also taking notes.

Thanks Clint! The effect is very similar to what I'v'e done with my marble mottle but I like to try different things.

portman wrote:Superb work John!

Thanks so much Stuart! I appreciate the feedback!

LyleW wrote:John, you are one tru craftsman!

Thanks Lyle! Sometimes I get trapped by trying to outdo what I've done before. In some ways, it can be positive when it leads to excitement and improvement but it can also create some stress and mental blockage. Sometimes I'll sigh and think, "boy do I HAVE to go through all of that just for the prop blades???"

Thanks Bruce! Always appreciate your thoughtful insights!

The aftermarket landing gear legs have been painted. I added the brake line spanning the retracting oleo section. I decided to go dark grey on the legs so the detail doesn't quite pop.



The Barracuda resin wheels have been painted as well. I'll probably do one more round of weathering to tone down the white stenciling.



After spraying the canopy frames dark grey (RLM 66), I spray the frames in black. I want to make sure that the frames are opaque. Nothing says, "Hi, I'm a plastic model!" than light shining through thinly-painted canopy frames!


I'm also settling on the exterior colors using my 262 engine nacelle as a paint mule.

RLM 76 Light Blue - AK Real Colors
RLM 76 Blue/Green - AK Real Colors
RLM 81 Brown/Violet - AK Real Colors
RLM 74 Grey - Gunze Aqueous
RLM 83 Dark Green - Gunze Aqueous

The lighter grey is a Tamiya shade that I don't quite like so I'll have to revisit that color.