SPA Modeler

Medicman71 wrote:Not to nit pick, but there's areas that look like they weren't painted or the paint didn't spray right. The inner wings around the wing root and the horizontal tails.

Mike, probably so. it has been handled so much trying to get the decals on then off, then masks, etc. There has been touch up on areas done with brush, as I am planning to give it a clear coat. There is also a flat black wing walkway decal there...may come off and get painted. ...and a bit of overspray i'm sure. This is turning in to a crap sandwich and I am tired enough to not really care. Probably should quit for the day.

This last round of trying to mask the insignia did not go as well as hoped. The more I looked at it, I think it was the clear gloss that was sprayed on to do decals. Tops of the wings had several large grainy areas. I am scrubbing those off with ISA and about to break out the steel wool. I'll repaint the tops of the wings probably tomorrow.

okay, new masks cut. The top of the wings repainted. Time for lunch and see what the maillady hath brought.

The Oramask 810 is a great masking material for MOST of our needs. Not all but most. Same stuff that Montext uses.

I'm puzzled why the X-2 White behaved so differently than the XF-2 Flat White. I almost always use the gloss version of any color when shooting through an airbrush because the gloss color will always be smoother than the flat. All of the white insignias that I've been shooting through a mask has been with Tamiya X-2 White. What are you thinning with?

I thinned it with Mr. Leveling Thinner, perhaps it caused the problem. The XF-2 did somewhat the same thing. I added more paint to the mixing cup, which seemed to fix the problem. Too much thinner? I don’t know, I would guess a 70% / 30% paint to thinner.

Same as Montex? Seems thinner. May still get some sheets of the kabuki-style paper.

This is the back of the Montext mask for the Revell 109G-10 kit. I can't vouch for every Montex release but yeah, Montex uses Oramask 810 for their retail sets. These are the markings masks, not the black vinyl canopy masks... don't know what material that is.


Mr Leveling Thinner is pretty hot. I've had it eat through to my pre-shade layers. I recommend it for certain situations but would not use it as a primary thinner for detail painting. Use 91% iso alcohol or Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for Tamiya acrylics instead. More stable results. I just had some funky results on my Ta152H when I thinned my Tamiya X-1 Black with MLT...

My 91% is approaching the endangered level. When I can find ISA, it is the 70%. Good advice on the thinners. Thank you!

For what it is worth, insignia reapplied.

You’re getting better at this masking stuff Lyle. You’ll be a pro in no time!

Thank you. I guess doing it over and over and over helps.

Practice makes perfect!