SPA Modeler

For getting that spinner to stick but be removable, have a look at Micro Scale Liquitape. You apply it where you want and once dry, it will give a tacky adhesive contact point.

I wish I could make a model as good as you did your canopy! Great work, great attention to detail.

Stikpusher wrote:For getting that spinner to stick but be removable, have a look at Micro Scale Liquitape. You apply it where you want and once dry, it will give a tacky adhesive contact point.

Todays "learning something new" achieved... Did not know this about Micro Scales Liquidtape !

- Kari

Amazing work as well as ideas, John. Sincerely. I was gonna add to what Borg suggested as a solution. Have you tried using magnets?

Thanks for the spinner attachment suggestions! There are some limitations that I'm up against. Attaching anything on top of the spinner hub would defeat the purpose of having the spinner removable. Physical contact is along the very thin edges of the spinner and backing plate so I don't know if the tacky adhesive approach would yield enough grip. The magnet is an interesting idea but it would have to involve some surgery to embed the magnet inside of the hub, which is solid resin and already glued on. I'm assuming that there would be enough magnetic force to hold the spinner in place EVEN THOUGH the two magnets may have a gap between them? I guess I can order some...

John, those magnets are what I use to hold down the resin top half of the Aries 1B. There is a slight surface gap, about the thickness of two sheets of paper, and no issue with holding things in place whatsoever. I drilled holes and embedded the magnets in solid resin.

I only have a photo of the top to share, but if you want to see the interior I will take a few snaps. Lemme know and good luck.

Thanks for the photo, Bruce... that's a pretty big piece to held together by magnets so I'm thinking this approach just might work with the Dora spinner. The gap between the magnets will be significantly greater than a couple sheets of paper. More like 1/4" or 1/8". I've ordered a set of 3mm x 1mm magnets to play with... they'll probably be here later this week.

My paint order has been established by the application of hairspray at the wing roots. I'll doing the top colors first in order to facilitate the chipping. I'm going to check my resources to determine where the border between the wing camo pattern and fuselage camo is..

Wow, what amazing and jaw-dropping work! All I can do is express my admiration for such overwhelmingly masterful work.

Glad you are enjoying the build Duke! Painting of Red 1 has officially begun. I started by doing my normal panel pre-shading.



I applied a mottle on the top side to help modulate the camo colors. I don't think it is worthwhile doing this to the bottom as the high contrast red and white stripes will probably negate any pre-shade effects unless I dial back on the white and red, which I don't want to do. Even the panel line pre-shading might be rendered unnoticeable by the time I get done with the stripes.



I had some leftover black in the airbrush so I darkened the bottom center. The radiator cowling and the horizontal elevators are detached but will be painted at the same time as the rest of the airframe.


My preshading routine wears me out so that's all I'm going to do today. I have map out the camo colors using the references that I have. This Dora is from the Fiesler factory and it appears that it has a engine power-egg that was painted at a separate factory and doesn't match the rest of the fuselage. It may have even been a replacement since the exhaust stains don't seem to match. The gun cowling may have been a replacement as it does not match either the power-egg nor the fuselage. I'm going to try to capture these features on this build.

Beautiful build the black mottle persuade is something I would like to master one day.