SPA Modeler

There ain't many airplanes with so beautifully streamlined front.
These excellent B/W pictures by Bruce could not show it more clearly!



- Kari

It's almost more reminiscent of a Spitfire to me because the tape is obscuring the small chin intake. Plus the three exhaust mounts remind me of the three-pipe Spitfire exhaust... nice pics Bruce!

Thanks, gents. I really appreciate your thoughts. I struggled to shape a small plastic support. I still need to adjust the angle; it is pushing up the oil pan a little too much from the rear. I cut pieces of straight card stock to make a pedestal lifting the engine into alignment with the nose.




I am excited to follow in John’s footsteps and open the exhausts, but I was thinking drilling a pilot hole followed by a larger one would be better for hard plastic.



Any thoughts about doing any of the above better?

I'm not clear on why you need to build a support for the engine, Bruce. From the photos it appears as if the engine would be supported in the front by the prop shaft and on side by the exhausts. There is also a rear bulkhead. If the bulkhead is attached to the engine, then you another attachment point for a total of four. How does the engine fit with the exhausts mounted on the engine?

Circular exhausts pipes are relatively simple to hollow out. I usually use a sharp x-acto knife but drilling is also a good way to do it. If you have the right size brass tubing, you could also chop the plastic ones off, drill new holes and mount the brass tubes.

John,

You are right; I am over thinking, which is a problem I must learn to correct or at least curb. I need to trust the kit more, especially since I am proceeding along with cleaning it up. Carlos also wrote that the exhaust assemblies fulfill the job of attachment points. I need to listen and I am listening to you both. Just because I think there should be a support does not mean there should be one... live and learn!

I really really REALLY like the idea to use brass tubing for the exhausts!!

Well, the main thing is that you are thinking, which is a good thing. Don't stop thinking about these things because it can and will lead to fruitful results. Using brass for the exhausts would also give better definition at the joint, which seems a bit soft on the molded part. Getting a consistent length AND maintaining the same angle and orientation for all of the pipes would be a challenge.

John,

Perhaps cutting at a consistent angle then adding the tubing will work? A little of the stub as a base (drilled out to receive the tubing) might be an answer!

I ordered goodies—a landing gear set specifically for 1/32 Hasegawa and a 1/32 Barracuda Resin seat with belts and decals. Even with the shipping costs, the project budget is still quite low, actually, which is a good sign. Now I must debate the wheel well modifications; at the moment I am going to say no, but there still could be a reversal of decision... as long as it does not lead to a reversal of momentum! I like the juice of being able to build very much!

Before I go, I wanted to reference Chris Sherland’s 2006 1/32 Hasegawa P-51D because he painted the plane black followed by an application of Amaco’s “Rub ‘n Buff.” I think his work looks dynamite, and I thought could this technique be the “painted” part of the wing?