SPA Modeler

portman wrote:That is some very clever work on that canopy John - it's looks superb.

I'm quite intreaged by the salt method, it's some thing I'd like to have a go with at somepoint.

It's a good way to portray paint fade effects. But the white frosting afterwards has bitten me a few times. Have to be careful with that.

speedgraflex wrote:John, the sculpt work you did on the gun cowling is exquisite (visible in last shot). The slightest of bulges at the latch attachment points, the riveting and paneling details, all add considerably to the final effect. What is primed so far on the wings and fuselage? And what are you using as primer?

Thanks Bruce! Since the fit of this kit is pretty good, I've only primed the areas that needed special sanding/puttying attention such as the gun cowl, radiator cowl, wing/fuselage. I also want to keep the rivet detail intact so that also played a part in restricting my primer to certain areas. Right now, I am using Mr Surfacer 1000 diluted with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner as my primer. It lays down very nicely and can be sanded and polished if desired. It's a bit toxic-smelling so I wouldn't recommend spraying it in tight quarters without proper ventilation and a mask.

I know I've fallen behind on Black One but I PROMISE I'll get to her soon! And here's a sneak peak at a future project...


Two kits but just one build. Or... maybe not.

jkim wrote: Two kits but just one build. Or... maybe not.

Wanna use parts of both kits for one build or is the idea of a double build growing in you? If it's the latter, I assume there's a need for good management by dealing with two 32nd kits simultaniously.

Thanks for letting me know about primer, John. I was planning to use the 1500 version (I also have Tamiya fine white primer. My thought was to bisect the aircraft with 1500 on top and Tamiya on bottom than use the Tamiya as the white base for the stripes.)

The way you thought out the minimal usage of primer to preserve your details is fantastic.

So excited for your color coats to begin! This is the first project build of yours I have followed in real time, which is a pleasure!

BF 109 G-6


Nice color documentation out there. Assume you want to use the G-6 to make a G-10, but this G-6 is really wonderful and a test of your painting skills too.

Two kits, two builds...


just kidding....

Those Revell Germany 109s are supposed to be very nice!

The primary objective of this build would be Hartmann's G-10 as depicted on the Revell G-10 box art. However, the Revell G-10 kit does not include the small upper wing bulges that Hartmann's G-10 was recorded to have. I have a set of resin wings with the small bulges (Alley Cat) but they did not fit very well on my previous build of the Revell G-10 kit. There is another correction set offered by Barracuda Studios but the risk of bad fit led me to purchase the Revell G-6 kit instead. I figure it will be an easy swap.

So... I have the Revell G-6 kit largely complete. The upper wings from the G-10 kit are available as are the Alley Cat wings with the smaller bulges. Essentially all of the parts for a G-6 or even a G-14.

Man, it's been a while hasn't it? For many varied reasons, I have not had a chance to progress on Red 1 for a long period of time. Summer has been very busy for me, which is a good thing. When I last left the Dora, I had prepared it for painting by masking all of the openings. And on Sunday afternoon, I finally had some time to sit at my modeling bench for a bit. The base metal coat for chipping purposes was laid down along the fuselage sides and wing root area. I used Tamiya AS-12 Silver, which I "decant" from a spray can (another word for spraying the paint messily into the cup of my airbrush).




I will let this cure and then spray a couple coats of hairspray on to it before proceeding with the camo colors. Short update, I know but I have a small "side project" that I started on as well. Check out the Star Wars GB...

So pretty... the rivets...



Lookin' good, John! For spray can decanting, I glue a cocktail straw to cover the nozzle portion of the cap actuator. Some fellas apparently found a way to tape on the straw, how I do not know, but it certainly seems possible -- is it a straw or a stirring stick or swizzle stick -- those coffee stirrers work well. I conducted several experiments with glue on the plastic. Do not use CA as the cold gas emission breaks the seal. I found two part epoxy such as ugly ole JB Weld works best.

Or another trick you can do is use the spray nozzle head with straw of a W-2 can .... unused and new of course. Something to think about...

I have yet to find a straw that matches the nozzle portion of a Tamiya Spray Paint can... but I'm still searching. Their Olive Drab 2 is perfect for Soviet Vehicles.

That silver base looks good! Nice to see this one resume progress!

Thanks guys! Good tips about the straws!

After a few coats of hairspray were sprayed onto the silver and allowed to dry, I can continue on the pre-shading. I've heard some modelers argue against pre-shading panel lines but I like the results that it gives me. I also quite enjoy the act of tracing the panel lines with an airbrush... I find it therapeutic. It also forces me to look carefully at all of the model surfaces and I can catch some missed errors this way.



The next step is something that I've come up with to give the camo finish some depth and irregularity. I guess you could consider it the inverse of black-basing, which I was trying to emulate. But instead of painting the whole model black and then scribbling the lighter colors on top, I scribble black on top of light. I'll also darken certain wear and stain areas such as gun troughs, ammo chutes, the centerline bottom, exhaust area, etc.


The process takes a bit of time and tonight's session was ended here after my trigger finger started cramping up. I'll finish the pre-shading at the next workbench session and then I can start on the camo colors!