SPA Modeler

Thanks guys! Yeah, the wash is that simple. Scrape and mix!

You can custom make any color you want and I like the results that you get with this method... very smooth and no granularity or grittiness at all. Plus it's water-based so it is very safe with all paint finishes and clear coats. I've been using this set...


I also have a set of Greys to make lighter color washes.

I make only enough for the task at hand. It'll dry out by the next day but you can simply add some water and use it again. I like to use a fresh batch when I'm putting the wash over the entire model. I haven't done this but you could probably make a larger batch and put it in a small bottle so that it wouldn't dry out.

I'm just thinking of all the pastel pencils and pastels I have sat in my cupboard Thanks for that explanation of a very interesting and simple technique John - I'll be trying that out.

There's an interesting video from Humbrol on youtube about using their weathering powders with water. The guy on the video mixed in a little bit of decalfix instead of washing liquid. It acted as a kind of fixer once everything was dry, but would still re-active with water.

Time for another correction! Again it was something that I did not notice at first. Based on the photographic record of Red 1, the position of the fuselage cross puts it very close to the red bottom with only a sliver of RLM76 light blue peaking through.


There is a noticeably bigger gap on my Red 1.


A suggestion was made to lower it but that would lower the top of the cross below the red "1" and I thought that it would look odd. Instead, I decided to create a slightly larger mask. If I could encompass the old cross entirely within the new mask, it would make the replacement MUCH easier to boot.

A new mask was produced using the Portrait 2 cutter. Test fitting the mask seemed to validate the solution.


A couple of small stencil details needed to be removed. The two data plates under the cross were really welded onto the model and I couldn't get them off. I rubbed them down with Micromesh to remove any visible edges.


I used a different paint order on these crosses. I did the white first, instead of the black.


Here is the new cross... the offending gap has been greatly reduced and the top of the cross is roughly in line with the top of the "1".


Fixed cross on the starboard side. This is the first instance where I experienced major paint lift upon removal of the mask but it should be a very easy fix.


I like the crosses better. Honestly, the gap between the cross and the red bottom didn't bother me much for some reason. However, the white in the old crosses was a bit soft and underdone, especially compared to the crispness of the "1". I think the new crosses are an improvement in that regard.

I’m running out of complimentary words.

Me Too ( euhm...)

- Kari

The first round of post-shading is done. This work was sealed with a satin finish (1/2 gloss, 1/2 flat). I'm working my way toward a salt fade and I find it easier to do if the finish has a little flat to it.



The post-shading, using very watery mixtures of dark browns, is also an opportunity to replicate some of the stains evident in the archive photos of Red 1.



The exhaust stains were also painted at this stage since there are shades of browns and blacks in the airbrush already. Note that the stains stop abruptly at a panel line. This is to reflect the references which indicate that the engine assembly may have been a replacement on Red 1.



A close-up on the starboard upper wing showing a bit of the mottle pre-shading that was done many steps ago. The post-shade on the top came out a little bit too heavy, especially along the wing root on the port side. If I have the ability and opportunity, this will be targeted to be toned down but salt fading step should do that as well.


I'm kind of at a loss of what to do on the bottom. That contrast between the red and white is so strong that it tends to kill the effects that I'm used to doing, although it shows up better in person than it does in photos.

Round 1 of the salt fading stage. I used a light green for this.





I've also added some very minor chipping using a sponge along the wing roots and also on the front fuselage.

That’s lovey.

This just keeps getting better.