SPA Modeler

Post-shading of the crosses:



Painting of the details. I used Vallejos, Vallejo Air metalics and inks in places as well as graphite powder for some of the metallic finishes.



M

That's going to look awesome when put together MC!

Thanks Portman! Yeah, lotsa pieces, each has to be done separately.

Hoping to get this thing finished by the end of the year!

M

Well, then.....Get on with it! This is really looking good. Great detail, great paint....

Thanks, Lyle! Glad you like it!

M

Michel, you are an artist in kit selection and painting! All you painted and shaded looks spectacular!

Thanks a lot Thomas!

Time for the decals. That round emblem on the convex surface took quite some sweet talking to get it to conform. I used Daco Strong as a decal softener. Worked well but one has to be careful. It should be swished over the decal with a brush rather than left to soak as it will melt the paint around the decal right down to the primer. Don't ask me how I know...



What's a decaling session without creating some custom decals, eh? Here's how to make a red placard with white lettering and a metallic border. Apply red square onto piece of aluminum tape (first primed with transparent metal primer). Then apply white lettering onto red square. The lettering came from the kit's stencils, which Haseg furnishes in both black and white, a nice touch.



Cut out the placard slightly larger than the red square and, voila!



Once all the decals were in place I inflicted some damage, as usual, with a hobby knife.



Last but not least, all decals were post-shaded with the base color to fade them and integrate them with the model.



M

Well observed! Post shading new and fresh looking decals is mostly forgotten but will stand out on a weathered build. Thumbs up!

Thomas_M wrote:Well observed! Post shading new and fresh looking decals is mostly forgotten but will stand out on a weathered build. Thumbs up!

Yes, and another area where modelers sometimes 'sin' is clear parts. A/C canopies, headlights and other clear parts that are all clean, bright and shiny while the rest of the model is covered in dust and dirt just doesn't make sense. Easily handled by spraying a light coat of matte clear with or without some sandy brown.

Just my 2c.

M

Can't wait to see the finished product - especially how you do the clear parts weathered/dirty.