SPA Modeler

Thank you Bruce we hope to see him cancer free soon for one thing he has never let it keep him down, he keeps saying hes beat cancer twice already something else is going to have to kill him besides it.

So I got all the cockpit parts together first they was primed with Tamiya fine grey primer, then everything painted with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. Finally Everything was painted with a very thin and built up Tamiya XF-22 (their RLM02). The engine block was painted XF-20 Medium Grey and the firewall painted Alclad II Duraluminum.






Next up will be doing some weathering today not going to be much done on her since I'm building it as one of Rommels' in North Afrika my thinking is the ground crew wouldn't let his get down right filthy.
Thanks for looking in!

Thanks for you thoughtful comment Bruce, you are right probably in action propaganda is the most we use as modelers. I have a book that details the life of Joseph Goebbels. Remembering one thing that stood out most was him telling the film crews and photographers to make sure to always film the tanks, aircraft, etc. moving left to right that gives the illusion that we are advancing and to always show the enemy moving right to left that gives the illusion of retreat to the viewer. If you think about it we still see that today think of all the Vietnam, Desert Storm I&II footage we've seen in the past years.


Got the weathering done on the cockpit I will get some photos of it up later. Also got the leather on the seats painted again I'll get some shots of them up in a bit as well. Wanted to show what I have got done on the engine. Got things detail painted using mostly Vallejo paints. Black and MM Aluminum for the pistons, Tamiya copper for the pushrods and plug wires. Then one of my favorite things to paint the exhaust. First started by giving it a coat of Vallejo Flat Black, Then a dry brushing of MM Aluminum (thought I had taken a Photo here but I guess it didn't save). Next was a very thin wash of Vallejo Royal Blue over it all

Then after that has dried several very thin washes of Vallejo Smoke mixed with a few small drops of Black and a bit of the Royal Blue wash mixed in too was then applied on the entire exhaust.


Sorry about the photos that was the best I could do.
I wish I had a better camera then just my phone something that could do nice macro shots, but I'm camera stupid and have no idea where to begin, I know a lot of the cheap point and shoots won't get me what I want but at the same time I don't need no SLR.
Thanks for looking in!

Very interesting information regarding the filming techniques in propaganda films!

Looking very nice!
MM = Mission Model paint?

I have and use a pretty cheap pocket camera, Nikon ”something”. I bought it only with one requirement, to be able to take really close-up pics. All white balance and other stuff I fix then with the computer. I have also an SLR cam, but not a suitable lens...

- Kari

KSaarni wrote:Very interesting information regarding the filming techniques in propaganda films!

Looking very nice!
MM = Mission Model paint?

I have and use a pretty cheap pocket camera, Nikon ”something”. I bought it only with one requirement, to be able to take really close-up pics. All white balance and other stuff I fix then with the computer. I have also an SLR cam, but not a suitable lens...

- Kari

Thanks Kari! Sorry MM is model master and it's the metalizer paint non buffing it says for air brush only but it brush paints very well too.

What a great piece of information on visual processing left to right versus right to left, Clint. I would really like to see more close shots of your engine exhaust work—the bluing in particular looks so amazing. I want to try out the effect.

Some thoughts on photographing small objects with a camera phone: The background is more important than you think. Auto focus reads faces well, but any close up details tend to be lost. The camera focus locks to the largest area - usually the background - instead of the foreground. Solution: use a monochrome black, white or grey piece of paper or cardboard with no writing or designs on it. Try this without using a bottle or jar to lift the piece itself. Solution: use a small blob of Blu-Tak to temporarily mount the object at the angle you want to showcase. That way you are keeping the object steady. A clean background and a steady mount will go a long way to creating great shots.



I did a few edits on these before I added them to my folder following your project. If you have a FB account, do check out Oscar Sierra’s work:

Clint, that engine looks great! I’d second Blacksheep’s recommendation of Metalizer paints. They are great paints, and do handbrush well enough. The pigments are extremely fine, and the buffable paints can give an incredible shine.

Regarding the aspects of who comes from where on the screen, I recall reading or hearing somewhere about having the protagonist always coming from the right, and the antagonists from the left. Probably the best example of this that I can think of is in the 1958 film, “The Hunters”. Some fantastic aerial cinematography, and before the dogfights begin, the Sabres are seen coming from the right, and the (F-84) MiGs from the left.... the C-119s in the drop scene, enter- stage right... a fun old 50’s film. If the writers could only have dropped the requisite sappy love story.

Lol I feel a bit stupid but I had a flip through that book again and I remembered it backwards it did state right to left and show the enemy left to right. I'll have some more photos up before I go to week tonight of the weathering on the fuselage and some better shots of the engine using Bruce's advice.

that is great work. Mrs. Feisler would be proud of you!

I have the 1/32 Hasegawa kit in the stash.

Really good progress on this one Clint.

I do a lot of close ups myself of interior and engine work and always put a piece of white paper as a background to take care of any focusing issues.