SPA Modeler

mustang1989 wrote:I appreciate the kind words fellas. You actually do have a little control with a rattle can. The speed at which the passes are made and the distance away from the "target". Temperature and environment play a part in it as well just as with any paint.
You gotta watch a lot of the glosses though. I'm finding that most these days (at least in modeling paints) are lacquer based clears. If an enamel based color is applied you'll have to use a sealer before applying the lacquer based gloss coat or go with a lacquer based color before the clear. You'll end up with a mess you don't want due to paint incompatibility issues. I first ran into this with my 56 F-100 when applying the clear coat over the paint job and the flames that I applied. The base color survived because it was a Tamiya acrylic but the enamel based flames went south quick ! Remember.....enamel over lacquer is fine but lacquer over enamel with no sealer is a disaster waiting to happen.

Just so you guys know....the Challenger is a clear coat only. No paint. That's the molded in red body color. LOTS of body prep on that one!!! lol

mustang1989 wrote:No problem fellas. That's what we're all here for.

Here's the article for painting gloss finishes that I was referring to: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ans-part-i

and here's the second one for subassemblies: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ns-part-ii

KSaarni wrote:

mustang1989 wrote:No problem fellas. That's what we're all here for.

Here's the article for painting gloss finishes that I was referring to: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ans-part-i

and here's the second one for subassemblies: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ns-part-ii

Many thanks Joe for the two articles, really well written including good pics!
Excellent stuff!

I was thinking of the paint.. is it safe to use ”real” automobile colors ? Are they like thicker /thinner etc? Still trying to find the precise Iris blue for myself... I mean for my MG...

- Kari

mustang1989 wrote:No trouble at all Kari. As far as automotive colors go, you can use them. If you're going to use automotive lacquers make sure you prime REALLY well. At least that's been my experience. Spray through an airbrush with really light coats to get good coverage. The thing about automotive color is it goes on fairly well and has a flat almost eggshell like appearance. Don't worry about that as the clear coat will definitely bring out the gloss as well as make the color deeper. If you can get the paint code for the Iris Blue that's what the body shop will need.

mustang1989 wrote:LOL! No water based primers like Vallejo Kari. Man that would be a mess. I've used Tamiya rattle can gray primer with great results due to the fact that Tamiya rattle can primer is lacquer based. I primed my 1969 Camaro Z to SS resto project with it.