SPA Modeler

Looking pretty awesome here...

Many thanks,

The camouflage and track colour touch ups are complete. I have added the tow cables (I will fix the floating off the deck) and a few more bits:











Regards,

It’s all coming together very nicely Kent!

Kent,

I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind, but first—your work looks awesome! I am awarding you the airbrush master gold medal deluxe! Infinite likes on everything you have done! This was a truly outstanding project (and I know it’s not quite done but WOW!), wow, wow and WOW! From those Zimmerit decals - and the way you finessed these - all the way to the treads where I am just thinking those look just right—not too slack or tight—and then there is the soft true to reality camo paint job... congratulations on all that!

My question is how did you paint the gun because I have never painted a gun that’s so detailed and I like the contrast between what is clearly wood and clearly metal and how you kept these realistically separate; I have little rounded posts that are wood - one on top and two at the rear of the gun and then the gun itself to paint and the color instructions are “red brown” for the wood, and well, “steel” for metal...

speedgraflex wrote:Kent,

My question is how did you paint the gun because I have never painted a gun that’s so detailed and I like the contrast between what is clearly wood and clearly metal and how you kept these realistically separate; I have little rounded posts that are wood - one on top and two at the rear of the gun and then the gun itself to paint and the color instructions are “red brown” for the wood, and well, “steel” for metal...

Many thanks Bruce,
You are far too kind. As far as painting your .50 calibre HMG, I would use a “dark” gun metal colour as IIRC all US weapons were given a “parkerised” finish to protect them. Just paint the entire gun in your chosen colour. The secret to painting the cocking lever (the side one) and the two rear grips is good lighting, magnification and free flowing paint. I use a small sable brush, maybe a 0 or 1. Load your brush but not too much and try and flow it against the area, using its natural liquidity to cover up to the metal demarcation. Once you are happy let it dry then a protective coat prior to a dark wash then dry brush to highlight. I also sometimes use a 2B pencil rubbed against the metal to give it a sheen or even just rub your finger over it and use good old body oil!

I am pretty sure the central part of the front handle is would so you may wish to paint the wood in the front grip which is hanging under the barrel, just above the “w6”.

Regards,

A simple way to paint a .50. First give it a flat black base coat, then dry brush with a good dark grayish gun metal color like Humbrol. That will leave shadows in the recessed areas and give a good worn metallic look. The parkerizing finish wears off with maintenance over time. Those spade grips and the charging handle can be either wood or plastic, brown or black, depending upon the era.

Stikpusher wrote:A simple way to paint a .50. First give it a flat black base coat, then dry brush with a good dark grayish gun metal color like Humbrol. That will leave shadows in the recessed areas and give a good worn metallic look. The parkerizing finish wears off with maintenance over time. Those spade grips and the charging handle can be either wood or plastic, brown or black, depending upon the era.

Thank you, Carlos! Excellent advice!!!

Stikpusher wrote:A simple way to paint a .50. First give it a flat black base coat, then dry brush with a good dark grayish gun metal color like Humbrol. That will leave shadows in the recessed areas and give a good worn metallic look. The parkerizing finish wears off with maintenance over time. Those spade grips and the charging handle can be either wood or plastic, brown or black, depending upon the era.

That’s much easier! I sometimes get stuck in a system of painting and overlook the alternatives. I like it.

Regards,

Some progress in adding tools and re re-touching up paint. The AA MG is just for a look see at the moment:















Regards,