A brilliant solution to those confined area challenges!
1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
- Stikpusher
- Moderator
- Posts: 21189
- Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2014 8:37 pm
- Location: Ceti Alpha 5
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
A brilliant solution to those confined area challenges!
"Surely I have made my meaning plain? I intend to avenge myself upon you, Admiral. I have deprived your ship of power, and when I swing 'round, I intend to deprive you of your life."
FLSM
FLSM
- speedgraflex
- Moderator
- Posts: 11358
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2017 11:08 pm
- Contact:
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
I have a putty delivery question: I am trying to imagine adding the putty in such confined spaces, and I am unable to wrap my head around.
So I have two questions I would like guidance on:
One—delivery or application of putty to fill a shallow recess; and two—delivery of putty to fill a thin groove or panel line.
I looked online when I started a year ago, and watched videos but the methods of others are not as neatly and precisely done as your own.
And I want to learn, if possible, to improve!
So I have two questions I would like guidance on:
One—delivery or application of putty to fill a shallow recess; and two—delivery of putty to fill a thin groove or panel line.
I looked online when I started a year ago, and watched videos but the methods of others are not as neatly and precisely done as your own.
And I want to learn, if possible, to improve!
Make more models!
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
I use liquid putty for those ejector pin marks. I use a paint brush to apply a drop to fill the circular recess. Because both of my liquid putties (Mr Dissolved Putty and Mr Surfacer) shrink as they dry, I usually load up the drop so that it forms a little bulged dome. Sometimes that isn't enough and I'll add second drop (or even third) as the first dries and shrinks back into the hole.
Similar process when filling recessed lines... use a paint brush to fill the line in with Mr Surfacer, making sure to overload the fill to account for shrinkage. Working with Mr Surfacer is frustrating because of the shrink issue. Mr Dissolved Putty is a little better but it still has some shrinkage and being white, it's harder to see.
Similar process when filling recessed lines... use a paint brush to fill the line in with Mr Surfacer, making sure to overload the fill to account for shrinkage. Working with Mr Surfacer is frustrating because of the shrink issue. Mr Dissolved Putty is a little better but it still has some shrinkage and being white, it's harder to see.
John aka JKim
-----------<><

-----------<><

- speedgraflex
- Moderator
- Posts: 11358
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2017 11:08 pm
- Contact:
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
Thanks, John. More Mr Hobby goods to purchase!!
Make more models!
- speedgraflex
- Moderator
- Posts: 11358
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2017 11:08 pm
- Contact:
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
Gregg Cooper (no relation) posted online photos of his Eagle Editions Masters. These were made before CAD using styrene strip and lead wire, etc.


Perhaps clues to fit or why the fit is elusive lie here?


Perhaps clues to fit or why the fit is elusive lie here?
Make more models!
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
Definitely some clues there. When a resin set requires removal of kit plastic, fit issues automatically arise since there is no way to replicate the removals from build to build. The Eagle Editions cockpit requires removal of all of the sidewall details, thinning of the insides of the fuselage and also trimming of the cockpit sills behind to seat to accommodate the canopy rails. You can see how far the fuselage sides have been thinned down when compared to the thickness at the hatch opening. It took a bit of work but I got the Eagle cockpit to fit on my Black 1 build. In my case, I elected to chop off the Eagle rear deck and graft the kit rear deck into position due to the slightly undersized resin components. Very cool pictures!
John aka JKim
-----------<><

-----------<><

- speedgraflex
- Moderator
- Posts: 11358
- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2017 11:08 pm
- Contact:
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
Thank you for a very cool explanation! That really helps to understand what challenges you were facing.




Make more models!
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
I've pretty much seen all of the resin cockpit sets for the 1/32 190D-9 and I think the Eagle Editions pit is the best one. I opted to go a simpler (and cheaper) route on this one because it will be a closed canopy build but I'll definitely use the Eagle if I build an open canopy.
Over the past few days, I've made some progress on Red 1. I've added the starter crank hole and rescribed the panel lines on the gun cowling.

Primer was used to check the sculpt. Since too much sanding plugs up the riveting work, I won't apply the rivets to the gun cowling until later.



The Revi 16 gun sight has been painted. The optical lens of the sight was added using UV-activated epoxy. This stuff is really neat and has so many uses in modeling.


Over the past few days, I've made some progress on Red 1. I've added the starter crank hole and rescribed the panel lines on the gun cowling.

Primer was used to check the sculpt. Since too much sanding plugs up the riveting work, I won't apply the rivets to the gun cowling until later.



The Revi 16 gun sight has been painted. The optical lens of the sight was added using UV-activated epoxy. This stuff is really neat and has so many uses in modeling.


John aka JKim
-----------<><

-----------<><

Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
The cockpit has also been painted. Here is the seat before the HGW harnesses are put into place. I played around with several brown and tan shades on the cushion but most of the seat will be covered by the harnesses.

Here is the painted cockpit tub. Nothing fancy here... just brush painted the details on the Aires resin. I added a wire for the lamp on the left console. Some individual instrument dial decals were punched out and placed into anything that looked like an instrument bezel. UV epoxy was used to simulate the glass dials.



The rear deck after some paint... variations of grey were used to give the piece some visual interest.

Not much detail on the cockpit sidewalls. The circular canopy crank on the starboard side was a PE piece from the Aires cockpit.

A quick check to see how the painted cockpit looks when placed into the fuselage. I still need to figure out a good way to position the instrument panel. For the dry-fit, I just used a blob of Blu-Tack.



Here is the painted cockpit tub. Nothing fancy here... just brush painted the details on the Aires resin. I added a wire for the lamp on the left console. Some individual instrument dial decals were punched out and placed into anything that looked like an instrument bezel. UV epoxy was used to simulate the glass dials.



The rear deck after some paint... variations of grey were used to give the piece some visual interest.

Not much detail on the cockpit sidewalls. The circular canopy crank on the starboard side was a PE piece from the Aires cockpit.

A quick check to see how the painted cockpit looks when placed into the fuselage. I still need to figure out a good way to position the instrument panel. For the dry-fit, I just used a blob of Blu-Tack.


John aka JKim
-----------<><

-----------<><

- Stikpusher
- Moderator
- Posts: 21189
- Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2014 8:37 pm
- Location: Ceti Alpha 5
Re: 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 Red One
That is some fantastic work in the cockpit John! 
"Surely I have made my meaning plain? I intend to avenge myself upon you, Admiral. I have deprived your ship of power, and when I swing 'round, I intend to deprive you of your life."
FLSM
FLSM