SPA Modeler

KennyX wrote:
I hate masking and painting windscreens and canopies. I suck at it and no matter how much attention I pay to doing it, I don’t improve. It’s my white whale.

From hell’s heart, I stab at thee. For hate’s sake, I spit my last breath, at thee...



But seriously Kenny, keep at it enough, you’ll find your groove.

Masking canopies with or without pre-cutted masks is a pain for me too.

I really need to be in a full Zen-mode to do the stuff, as if not, then all hell breaks loose..

I have an AM PE canopy for a 109 G-series in 1:48 scale... For these kind of "squarish" canopys the solution is quite straight forward.. at least masking could be skipped entirely.. Then again the bending of those frames could cause other issues....
Not sure how common AM PE Canopy frames actually are... and why they are not used more ?



- Kari

Thanks for the encouragement, fellas.

Working with decals that have thick carrier film, and masking and painting canopies are the combined bane of my existence. I get gun shy about using masks I’ve purchased for this exact reason, they tend to get ruined. And for me, it stalls projects because I dislike dealing with this process so much. It’s disappointing when the masks I buy don’t fit the parts 100% correctly and then I ruin them by trying to alter them... and then I have to order more online and we all know how I just loooooove that...

So I have decided to try a different method.

I ordered liquid mask. And what I’m going to try is:

1. Cut several thin-thin strips of Tamiya tape

2. Apply each strip along the edges of the frame (this’ll be easier for me than working with a whole mask with multiple angles)

3. Trim the overlap

4. Apply liquid mask on the parts of the “windows” that remain exposed.

This method so far makes sense to me. Masking one line at a time is easier than many, thin strips of tape are easier for me to work with, and we’ll see how the liquid mask performs.

KennyX wrote:Thanks for the encouragement, fellas.

Working with decals that have thick carrier film, and masking and painting canopies are the combined bane of my existence. I get gun shy about using masks I’ve purchased for this exact reason, they tend to get ruined. And for me, it stalls projects because I dislike dealing with this process so much. It’s disappointing when the masks I buy don’t fit the parts 100% correctly and then I ruin them by trying to alter them... and then I have to order more online and we all know how I just loooooove that...

So I have decided to try a different method.

I ordered liquid mask. And what I’m going to try is:

1. Cut several thin-thin strips of Tamiya tape

2. Apply each strip along the edges of the frame (this’ll be easier for me than working with a whole mask with multiple angles)

3. Trim the overlap

4. Apply liquid mask on the parts of the “windows” that remain exposed.

This method so far makes sense to me. Masking one line at a time is easier than many, thin strips of tape are easier for me to work with, and we’ll see how the liquid mask performs.

Absolutely, this is the way I also do, thin or thin-thin strips of Tamiya masking tape!
However, I do not use liquid mask, just put a bigger chunky piece of Tamiya on the "window". Not so fond of masking liquids...

- Kari

I’ll second Kari’s take on liquid masking agents. I’ve had spotty experience with those myself. I’m too cheap for pre cut masks, so I do things the old fashioned way with Tamiya tape and a nice sharp new xacto blade to trim. I add my masks after the Future did & dry, but before I glue the canopy in place. They remain in place until the end.

Masking canopies is definitely a challenge but worth the effort. I prefer the yellow tape for masks... the Eduard ones, if they are available. I find the fit of Eduard masks to be very good in most cases. The only ones I don't like are those long thin ones...



If I have to mask canopies by myself, I use Tamiya tape but use small segments of pre-cut tape and never cut the tape once it is on the canopy. Each frame edge is masked from one corner to the middle of the frame and then from the other corner to the middle, overlapping the first piece. It takes more time but I find it easier to do than cutting the tape once it is on the canopy. If the corner is rounded, I'll punch an appropriately small disc of tape.

Definitely have to be in the right mood to mask canopies... it can be a grind.

John,

I was using the Eduard masks. Never had a problem with them in my Emils but these for the Corsair, I didn’t like so much. Meh. Stuff happens. And they’re convenient and good quality. I’d use them again on other models, for sure.

Bruce,

I have considered that, and I’m not ruling that option out in the case my other idea doesn’t suit me.

Probably the compound curves on the F4U making the canopy more challenging. The 109 canopy is nearly all flat panes