SPA Modeler

Stikpusher wrote:Looks like you had a very productive weekend at Hobby Day. Lots of good stuff there

Thanks! It was indeed one of my most productive Hobby Days. I'm really fired up to keep going this week too. Hopefully I'll get a lot more done at home as well.

speedgraflex wrote:WOW!

I am so glad I subscribed to your topic; incredible experience to be on the wild ride you are taking through aircraft, armor and vehicle builds, Duke!!!

Thanks Bruce! This is one of my most exciting trips through the manufacturing plant, I should have more going soon.

speedgraflex wrote:Two quick questions -

1. For cementing aircraft fuselage seams, do you work from the center outwards or from both sides in when you add glue? I think I cocked up on the Horten nose by choosing a centered glue position than I had to add CA per Stik & Mustang & your suggestions. Is there a rule of thumb? This is the kind of basic construction question that does not ever seem to receive an answer or maybe it is so obvious it is silly to ask, but I am gonna ask you!

On a model like the F-102 or F-106 where there is a substantial opening under the fuselage for the wing assembly to fit; I'll cement the nose and tail areas first where there is more reinforcement to use to hold the parts together. Later on, I can add the thin cement to the upper spine area and press the top together while holding each side of the fuselage at the opening below.

On most other models, I'll add a slow-setting cement (like Testor's Tube Glue) to the entire edge of the fuselage and gradually press it together from nose to tail, lining it up as I go. If two fuselage halves are warped, I'll add glue to one end and press it together there until the glue dries. Then I'll add glue to another section and then press it together; slowly making my way down the fuselage, allowing the glue to dry before moving to the next section. It is a bit difficult to explain in text; when yo come to Hobby Day in June, remind me to bring something I can demonstrate these techniques for you.

speedgraflex wrote:2. Now I understand Mr. Surfacer better! Thank you. Question is how do you build layers if it is a quick drying product? My first CA attempts were pitiful and I ended up breaking parts because I could not grasp the timing at first, lol!!

Actually, Mr, Surfacer is a moderately fast drying product. The more you put on, the slower it dries. The heavy application you saw there took about a day to dry properly. You can also apply it in layers and let it dry in between, that will allow it to set much quicker so you can work it sooner. I even had to carve some of that thick stuff off since I'd applied it too thick. That's okay because I got the results I wanted; it's better too much than too little.

I rarely use CA glue anymore to fill gaps unless they are quite wide. It can be a challenge to sand that stuff. Mr. Surfacer has effectively replaced CA glue for me for filling light to moderate seams and gaps.

Thanks again for the great replies. Stay tuned for more.

Today I was able to find some time to get something done again. This time, I was able to fire up the compressor so I got a lot of painting done. I also worked a little on my Delta Dagger, but I spent most of my time painting my armor.


I'll start with the Dagger. I pulled it out and installed the canopy on this:



Those twist ties work perfectly for holding something in place that a clamp would be too strong for.

The next thing to do is get the wings installed on the fuselage:



Everything fit so well again. Now I can prepare this for paint:




Moving on to my armor, I fired up the compressor and started to shoot some paint. The first things I shot were the three 1/48 scale Shermans being built for the local game convention. I shot a coat of Olive Drab on these:



While these were drying, I shot a coat of dark Green on my Russian fuel truck after the window masking dried:



As that dried, I applied the first Silly Putty masking on the T-14 Armata:



Once that was on, I shot the small black parts of the camouflage pattern and let it dry. Once it was dry enough, I pushed most of the Silly Putty over it to mask the black, and added more Silly Putty where I needed:



For some reason I forgot to shoot a pic of the black on the tank before I masked it. Oh well. Once I had that masked, I shot the third color on the tank:



Now that was set aside to dry again. Meanwhile, I decided to try and practice more of my color modulation. I pulled out the Shermans again, loaded up some Panzer Dunklegelb and went to work:



Some parts are a little stark and the brush also spat a few times but overall these look okay. The colors will blend a little more once I weather these.

While those were drying, I decided to wrap things up by adding the wheels to the Russian fuel truck:





Now this is ready for gloss coat and decals. While I was at it, I also pulled all the Silly Putty from the Armata tank:





This one is also ready for gloss coat and decals. I'll be marking it as a Guards tank.

That's all I was able to get done this time. I can see the end of the line for a couple of these. Making this kind of progress sure feels great!

Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome!

WOW!!!!



Great progress photos!!!!!

Duke, thank you for your reply. I am able to bring an unopened, unbuilt Klingon Battle Cruiser to Hobby Day so you can show me how you fill seams and gaps. It is the kind of kit that probably will end up being built better in the end all glued together first because the fuselage is essentially a background for intensive painting and detailing effects. I believe this is the same kit Carlos used to build his beautiful version!


photo William George / Star Trek IV Klingon Battle Cruiser

It's essentially a redress of the ship from ST: TMP.

I have a question about how to secure clear plastic windows in place with adhesive. Should I be using canopy glue???

Thanks Bruce for the awesome reply. I will be thrilled to show you how to fill seams at Hobby Day. I have two fillers (not including CA glue) that are in my toolbox. These will be at your service to practice with.

And yes, canopy glue is excellent for applying clear parts. Other glues I use for this are Micro Scale Crystal Clear cement, Gator Grip Glue and in a pinch, Elmer's Glue-all.

Stay tuned, more to come.

Thanks so much, Duke!

You're welcome Bruce. I'm happy to help.

As mentioned in the Latest Acquisitions, I started some more models recently since they were easiest to work on at my friend's house as well as at my IPMS meeting Build Night.

At my friend's house while coaching him on one of the models I got for him, I started my Airfix USAAF set. I decided to start with something simple, so I turned to the back and assembled the little Cushman:



After that I started on the bomb trailer. I somehow managed to break the main axle without knowing when or how, so I only got this far on it:



Moving on; I started on the bomb tractor, assembling the chassis and floor:



This model has some very nice detail in the chassis and suspension:



Later on I assembled the hood, most of the cab and added the bomb crane to the read bed:



At my IPMS meeting Build Night, I assembled the main hull and turret of the Type 89 Early tank:



I wasn't ready to tackle all the tiny wheels that night so I started the Type 89 Late; building the hull and turret again:



Again, not ready for the wheels on this one either.

This may not seem like much progress, but I was doing a lot of socializing as well as coaching my friend whom I brought with me so he could get out of the house again. Anyway, I should be able to get more progress done later this week. I might even finish something too, so stay tuned.

Thanks all for looking in, comments are welcome.

You were something of a social butterfly the other nite. I can really see how the Japanese evolved the design of the Type 89 in those two kits. Very enlightening.

Ties.... now there's an interesting concept. I've been wanting to do a Delta Dart for ages myself. I've already got the scheme I'm doing - Griffiss AFB in Rome, NY. In fact, I've been researching on various aircrafts that were stationed there through the years. Still cannot find the 1/144 scale B-52 Stratofortress kit with the Griffiss AFB markings decals included.

Stikpusher wrote:You were something of a social butterfly the other nite. I can really see how the Japanese evolved the design of the Type 89 in those two kits. Very enlightening.

Yeah, I just couldn't help myself. I can't get enough of being around all my friends and fellow modelers. With all the building going on, there was so much to see. I especially love watching others work; I learn so much from seeing everyone's techniques.

I do love doing different versions of vehicles just to see how they get developed over time.

Blacksheep, I got the idea of twist ties some years ago. They work wonders holding fuselage halves together since they exert equal pressure all around when they are tied tight. Holding difficult shaped parts in place is another great benefit. Glad I could help.