SPA Modeler

Moving right along now! I know there are always options when it comes to paint order but I'm curious why you are dealing with the fuselage cross markings at such an early stage? And don't you have decals for the cross markings?

Speed Limit

As much as I want to build this quickly I also want to make this well. The kit decals are quite possibly the toughest ones I have used. Due to a combination of age, storage and manufacturing, I foresee some difficulties in confirming these easily and well to the surface of the model. I could source replacements but that puts the markings in the final days of construction and I would rather knock out the masks here and now with 14 days left.

As far as fitting the fuselage together I take the stance that once the white section of national insignias are done, I can handle the rest of the marking-components once the fuselage is glued together. I have thought about sourcing better decals for the swastikas and stencils if financially possible. I am in two minds about “265.” Freehand or stencil or decals. What would you do?

I know you specifically asked about the slightly or more than slightly strange step of not gluing the fuse together. Masking on a flat surface is easier for me; however it goes against my Prime Directive which is essentially to do the work as it was logically done by the factories and the crews working in the field. The masking of insignia would be done after the camo. I am breaking my own rule as well as the assembly sequence used by builders. Two strikes against. I am actually excited about doing this otherwise I would have glued the fuse up already. I remember Carlos received some critical flak for painting the invasion stripes on Flak Bait with a similar approach. I believe what Carlos wanted was to keep the visuals in register.

I am also going to hunt for some PE belts in my spares as I think I can do better with what I have for a cockpit. Call me crazy because I most assuredly am! All the best and thanks for your reference, comments and fantastic advice, John.

Stikpusher wrote:Your graphic arts background is shining thru on those masks! Very nice!

Did you have Drafting Class at your high school? I fall back on what I learned there every day. Cheers.

That is awesome ,work.

speedgraflex wrote:

Stikpusher wrote:Your graphic arts background is shining thru on those masks! Very nice!

Did you have Drafting Class at your high school? I fall back on what I learned there every day. Cheers.

Yes we did. One of my favorite classes in school. Occasionally I can put some vaguely remembered method from those classes to work.

Thanks so much, Lyle! I found some PE seats from AML for 3 bucks on eBay or maybe I’ll slice up more Tamiya tape because that may easily be the cheapest, strongest option. Also that would be the classic option! Slap my Daddy I didn’t even think about the time honored tradition of using Tamiya tape and wire to make buckles. Dang it.

Carlis, lol! From the amount of improv in your work I think you use your Drafting Class knowledge a lot more often than that.

Late war color 109 reference (G series) to judge white opacity





Also thanks to Marius for alerting me that the left side of the horizontal bar was not straight...

do you have any lead foil tape? I can send you some....for seat belts, etc.

No I don’t! I never heard of it either. My lack of aircraft modeling basics is definitely showing. Is that similar to wine bottle foil or something totally different? And thank you for your offer, Lyle!

I guess it is very similar to that....the wine I drink, when we do usually has a screw top...

This is the lead tape - self adhesive backing, can be cut with a sharp knife or scissors. it is 1/4" wide



This is copper foil, used in stained glass work. No adhesive backing. This is 3/16" wide

Lyle, Thank you for the photos! I could easily see how dear belts and a lot of other parts situations could be adroitly handled with each.