Stuart's GAABSA Build's.

[Stuart]

Stuart,

Re the pink cast to the photos above, have you ever used the tools available through Visual Supply Co? They make a crackin' good - absolutely free - mobile version of camera and editing tools for the phone which I use all the time. What I did was take the pink shots and apply an Analogue filter. Result:

Hi Bruce,

Wow that looks cracking - I had a look on their website (I think) but couldn't find anything specific - would you happen to have a link?

Great tip though - thanks!

Stuart

[Stuart]

just as a quick verbal (written???) update to this thread...

I'm still working on the cockpit of the J-29B - It's coming along well and the decals used for the IP etc don't look too bad. I do think it could do with a wash of something though - any suggestions?

The Spitfire is also coming along - I'm putting the green down on the camo but I'm having a really bad time with Humbrol Acrylics - they are just crap paint. They're obviously formulated to cover in one coat, as any amount of thinning with either water or their own thinners causes bad colour seperation - I just cannot get an even colour! This will be the 6th model in a row I've had painting issues with and I think it's time to try something else - as it's really effecting my mojo.

I might try some rattle can's on the next build - but I've also bought an airbrush, once I get my compressor issues sorted out I'll try and get more into it, BUT... I do happen to like brush painting - I find it quite relaxing. so I need to try and find a new paint type that I can use indoors (Enamels have been banned )

I've bought a few Tamiya Acrylic paints to play with. they're pretty easy to find over here and they don't come in those little bottles like some other paints do - like my Hataka paints. Most of the things on the internet I've read about Tamiya Acrylics say they are not very good for brush painting but I'm not so sure - I've tried a few experiments on my paint hack straight from the bottle and so far they seem pretty good, no real brush marks and the colours are pretty solid. I did notice some lift on one trial when applying the second coat, but I'd not let it dry for very long. If you leave it for an hour or so between coats then the lift wasn't an issue. However they DO 100% need to go down on primer - as they won't stick otherwise - I did some scratch tests and managed to rmove all I'd painted with out primer.

I think that some X-20A Thinner and some retarder would help a lot to improve the flow for bigger areas, as will using a wet brush - but they are certanly usable from the pot - THIS IS NOT what I read mainly on the internet. It makes me wonder if the people who say they can't be brush painted have ever tried it, or are just re-saying something they've read on the net?

And the best thing is my wife didn't mind the smell when I painted next to her

sorry for the waffle - just clearing some thoughts out.

Cheers

Stuart

[Stikpusher]

Tamiya can be brushed. It just requires its own technique. As you have learned, it forms a skin quickly and is not amenable to second coats in short order. So that aspect negates the rapid drying time for recoats of acrylics. You can't be in a hurry. Brushes are another factor. Good damp bristles help. Stay away from cheap brushes. Their thinner and retarder helps.
How about Xtracolor Acrylics Stuart? I know they available where you are. I have only been able to get ahold of one myself, but it was not a bad paint type. Then you have Revell Acrylics in your part of the world as well. I like their enamels, but have not come across their Acrylics yet.

[speedgraflex]

Stuart, forgive me—I was not subscribed to your thread! Here is the link to VSCO. The app is free with basic tools, filters, grain and VSCOcam, which is all I use when I use the iPhone. I believe they make a comparable app for android as well. You should be able to get the app here:

https://vsco.co

I realize that using a mobile app may not suit your current work flow. VSCO does make desktop presets which allow you to add grain structure to your images and work through a program such as Lightroom as a plug in. In fact, VSCO makes a great desktop plug in designed for mobile photos which will transform them significantly. However, if you do use your mobile to take photos not just of models but of all subjects, I strongly recommend VSCO. It's good.

[Stuart]

Stuart, forgive me—I was not subscribed to your thread! Here is the link to VSCO. The app is free with basic tools, filters, grain and VSCOcam, which is all I use when I use the iPhone. I believe they make a comparable app for android as well. You should be able to get the app here:

https://vsco.co

I realize that using a mobile app may not suit your current work flow. VSCO does make desktop presets which allow you to add grain structure to your images and work through a program such as Lightroom as a plug in. In fact, VSCO makes a great desktop plug in designed for mobile photos which will transform them significantly. However, if you do use your mobile to take photos not just of models but of all subjects, I strongly recommend VSCO. It's good.

Thanks Bruce - I've downloaded it and have been having a play.



Cheers

Stuart

[speedgraflex]

Stuart, your discussion of paints to use is very interesting to me. I am thinking about using more fluid acrylics—which are easy to brush and airbrush—for my modeling work, mainly because there are currently no known safety hazards associated with using them and they are quite odorless. I tested Fine Iridescent Silver by Golden on the Horten project, and I am able to state categorically the paint stood up to all forms of sanding and polishing extremely well. I do use a primer to add tooth for acrylic paint, though, and I think that may be a must when using acrylics. For the 1/72 Ta 152 H-1, I plan to use up the AS-line of rattle cans from Tamiya before following in your footsteps to use an airbrush on the 1/48 Ta 152 H-1. I still need to try out Gunze and other Japanese solvent based paints, which is probably going to happen on the big Ta 152; more of a learning exercise there with that project, so I'll follow in the master's footsteps with Gunze for some RLM colors and Tamiya for others.

Your brushwork is tight on the Spitfire; the demarcation lines have good "character," if that makes any sense. I don't know—am I making any sense? I feel I am looking at an actual plane being built in the last progress photo, so to me, that's a job well done.

Cheers.

[Stuart]

Your brushwork is tight on the Spitfire; the demarcation lines have good "character," if that makes any sense. I don't know—am I making any sense? I feel I am looking at an actual plane being built in the last progress photo, so to me, that's a job well done.

Cheers.

Thanks for the compliment Bruce - alas I had some issues with the gloss coats and killed it a bit

After what seems like ages, I got a few hours of bench time in over the weekend - so I got some decals done on my Spitfire. All of the main ones are on, I'm just working on the stencils. I've had a few silvering issues, so I'm going to have to fix that. These aren't the normal quality Airfix decals and are a bit thicker than usual - but still usable.

One thing I did lear for future Spitfire builds is to do the inner wingwalk decals first, before the roundels go on - otherwise you get fit issues like I did. I'm going to have to trim them with a scapel where they overlap the edges of the roundel, and touch up soem missing bits on the stbd wing with paint once they're done.



It's not a bad kit this, not as good as the newer airfix Spitfires maybe but still very buildable - the only real gaff I can think off is the angle of the windscreen - it's far to steep and angle and throws out the profile of the whole aircraft.

Cheers

Stuart

[BorgR3mc0]

That Spitfire is coming along nicely!

[Stuart]

That Spitfire is coming along nicely!

Thanks Borg - I'm really enjoying building in a larger scale for once.

[Stikpusher]

That is looking very nice so far Stuart! Does the kit come with the Douglas Bader decals?