1/32 Revell Bf109G-6/AS Hohenjager

[LyleW]

John, magnificent work as usual!

[Fermis]

[jkim]

Thanks guys!

I'm going to constrain the hairspray chipping to the wing roots only. Assuming that the wing root fairing is made of wood, I've painted the area appropriately.


The preshading will occur in two phases. The first is preshading the panel lines in black.



Next a random mottle pattern is applied using a combination of different masks.

[Stuart]

Great stuff John!

[mustang1989]

You make it look aaaaalllllll too easy John.

[Stikpusher]

You make it look aaaaalllllll too easy John.

[Floki]

So you spray the mottle pattern over the areas you are going to chip too? That doesn't interfere with the metal and wood color underneath?

[Stikpusher]

Now that is a very good question!

[jkim]

Thanks guys!

So you spray the mottle pattern over the areas you are going to chip too? That doesn't interfere with the metal and wood color underneath?

Yes, that is right. The mottle pattern goes over the hairspray. It's a light coat of highly thinned black so usually it does not affect the chipping process.

After the hairspray on the wing roots has dried, it is time to start painting the RLM 76! I am using AK Real Colors RLM 76 Version 2 thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner at a 2:1 thinner to paint ratio. Since the paint mixture is so thin, the color needs to be built up slowly, leaving only a hint of the preshading underneath.










It took a number of refills of my airbrush cup to cover the entire aircraft but it eventually got done.




Using this technique, it is important to let the finish dry completely before deciding your finished. While curing, the highly thinned RLM 76 may mix with the preshading below and reveal more of the preshading.

[jkim]

Results of the hairspray chipping on the wing roots...



After a few touch-ups, the RLM 76 main camo is complete.



The yellow beneath the nose is masked off and painted.



The model in the lightbox to try and show the effects of the preshading.