Big Beautiful Doll [1/48 Otaki P-51D]

[Stikpusher]

Using the Airfix kit for donor parts to jazz up the Otaki kit, especially the cockpit, it a great idea. Swapping the main wheel wells would likely be a more involved project though. It would also lead to the landing gear being swapped out as a result. How deep down this rabbit hole are you looking to travel Bruce?

[speedgraflex]

Two more blending ideas: (1) Use the wheel well insert from the Airfix and landing gear - cut out the Otaki molded in place inaccurate version and (2) replace the “Ham Std” prop using the Airfix, as well as the antennas. Then full stop.

I think that would be less a rabbit hole and more likely the road I have already travelled: blend one kit of the best shape with either aftermarket or a donor kit. Essentially that is the same act of faith we all travel—only we sometimes negatively ascribe “advanced modeler syndrome” to an act which really is mentally stimulating, creative and improvisational in form. More or less, we all perform some version of this activity. Filling seams may be on the principle builders list but it took me a moment to test a theory, far less time then it ever would take to reduce a gap and fill it, in so doing, and now I have a sturdier and more realistic cockpit platform. The Otaki seat is essentially slab like, so I will substitute the Airfix version. Ditto the IP. Ditto the decal. A little less time thinking, and more time doing. My mantra.

[speedgraflex]

Walk around image. I was looking for rib tape reference.

[jeaton01]

Not trying to get you to depart the simple build, Bruce, but here are a bunch of Mustang pictures on my website:

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/Propplanes/p51/p51.htm

[jkim]

Also the sink marks on the exterior seem to work out if you heat the plastic inside and gently push. I’m not going to be responsible if someone tries something like that on their own model...

Brilliant! Never thought of that! I'd love to see a pictorial on how that would work! Seems like it would be a much cleaner fix than the fill/sand/re-scribe approach.

I would reconsider the wheel well swap. Lots of messy variables to consider in all three dimensions that you might not be able to achieve cleanly. What is wrong with the Otaki wells?

[KSaarni]

What a super idea Bruce!
And indeed, that's the right word describing Airfix, chunky. But not in a negative sense at all!

- Kari

[speedgraflex]

Not trying to get you to depart the simple build, Bruce, but here are a bunch of Mustang pictures on my website:

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/Propplanes/p51/p51.htm

John, the photo reference of “Daddy’s Girl” is some of the best I have ever seen! Thank you so much. I have a couple shots of “Jack’s Go-Buggy” from its restoration phase that make me think Humbrol is going to be my first choice of interior green. I also think I may shoot a base coat of yellow first. The fuel tanks, radios and flooring will probably be simple, basic flat black with an attempt at textures, but the interior fuselage framing of the cockpit will be yellow-green.

[speedgraflex]

Also the sink marks on the exterior seem to work out if you heat the plastic inside and gently push. I’m not going to be responsible if someone tries something like that on their own model...

Brilliant! Never thought of that! I'd love to see a pictorial on how that would work! Seems like it would be a much cleaner fix than the fill/sand/re-scribe approach.

I would reconsider the wheel well swap. Lots of messy variables to consider in all three dimensions that you might not be able to achieve cleanly. What is wrong with the Otaki wells?

I will show the steps on the second half of the fuselage. This will give me an opportunity to use the light box as well. It’s a simple process I use on almost every project. However this is the first time I used it to try to push the sunken interior sections (as you directly surmised it was the details of the cockpit which are the cause).

Based on your advice I will probably use the Otaki wheel wells as is. I will take a photo tonight. Will you help me decide what to do? The detailing seems off as though there was very little actual reference.

[speedgraflex]

What a super idea Bruce!
And indeed, that's the right word describing Airfix, chunky. But not in a negative sense at all!

- Kari

Kari! Thank you so much for taking such excellent reference. I was able to mentally fit the part itself thanks to your visuals!

[Stikpusher]

Two more blending ideas: (1) Use the wheel well insert from the Airfix and landing gear - cut out the Otaki molded in place inaccurate version and (2) replace the “Ham Std” prop using the Airfix, as well as the antennas. Then full stop.

I think that would be less a rabbit hole and more likely the road I have already travelled: blend one kit of the best shape with either aftermarket or a donor kit. Essentially that is the same act of faith we all travel—only we sometimes negatively ascribe “advanced modeler syndrome” to an act which really is mentally stimulating, creative and improvisational in form. More or less, we all perform some version of this activity. Filling seams may be on the principle builders list but it took me a moment to test a theory, far less time then it ever would take to reduce a gap and fill it, in so doing, and now I have a sturdier and more realistic cockpit platform. The Otaki seat is essentially slab like, so I will substitute the Airfix version. Ditto the IP. Ditto the decal. A little less time thinking, and more time doing. My mantra.

You have me about ready to go by Hobby Lobby and grab another Airfix Mustang for this sort of thing Bruce. I did a similar amount of Frankenstein work on my Otaki FW-190A using spare parts from Eduard and Tamiya. In the long run, you get more for your money doing that part of improvement than by investing in resin sets...