Dragon's M4A4 Sherman w/60lb. Rocket

[BlackSheep214]

I've been working on this kit this week while recovering from back issues. Some of you may remember I won this on a raffle last year at Syracon Model show.

The kit:



So far what I've done:

(Those are the 60lb. rockets on the left)











All are left to do are the tracks (those should be fun... ) and the fiddly bits before slapping on paint and decals.

[Stikpusher]

Yeah Sherman Indy link tracks are always fun...

Remember, no sag, it was a "live" track, unlike most other countries tracks.

Looking real good!

[BlackSheep214]

Ok, these are the tracks that comes with the kit to be assembled. I have two sprues of these.



The directions as noted:



I'm like "How the hell am I suppose to hold them in a straight line to assemble them?!"

I got to thinking since I'm sure to lose some of these parts along the way. So, I looked around for AM tracks and found this by Bronco :



I wonder if these ones are easier to assemble than the kit provided tracks. I'm not crazy about using AM vinyl tracks. What about Fliulmodel tracks? I understand they're made of metal?

If any of you armor experts have any thoughts, advice, and recommendations, it would be greatly appreciated.

[Stikpusher]

The Bronco tracks will have the same challenges as the kit tracks. Although the fit may be better due to engineering. Keep a pin vise and mini drill bit of the proper size handy, as the end connectors of the Dragon links occasionally have the pin holes filled in the molding. I've built a few and speak from experience.

To keep your upper and lower runs straight, build them in sub assemblies of 4-8 links, then glue those to the proper length, and allow those to dry overnight. Use a strip of basswood, square metal tubing, or similar item the width of the road wheels to keep your tracks aligned. Place the inner face against that item and the outer face up where you can see the cleats to keep those in matching orientation. Have the teeth of the end connectors hang down.

Metal tracks are overkill on M3/M4 hull family vehicles, as those AFVs had no sag using a "live" track. Metal tracks are best used to depict types that have "dead" tracks with sag, such as on older German and Soviet vehicles.

[BlackSheep214]

I think I understand your process. I saw a YouTube video where one used tape upside down to work it. I'll see how that might work before gluing anything.

[Stikpusher]

Tape would work to a certain extent, but it has no rigidity to work as a straight edge guidance rig. I'm sure there are plenty of ways to tackle this challenge.

[Duke Maddog]

This is looking good so far Blacksheep, I like it. Carlos has given some excellent advice on the tracks; I don't work in that scale so I can't help with tracks. I can help with one more thing though: when you get far enough to mount the rockets to the turret, be sure to mount them at a 45 degree angle +/-. Those rockets had no power which is why they were commonly mounted to aircraft. The forward speed of the aircraft when they were launched helped them get a good distance before impact. On tanks like this; if they were mounted horizontally, they would land about 50-60 feet in front of the tank. In order to get more distance, they were mounted at a 40-45 degree angle so that they were 'lobbed' and able to reach 120-150 feet distance.

I learned that when I was building my 1/72 scale "Tulip" as the British called this tank.

Looking forward to seeing more.

[BlackSheep214]

I'm at a slow down dealing with these darn tracks. Slow going but a PITA to do....

[Stikpusher]

Yup... Indy link tracks can slow down any smooth moving project to a snails pace... I think the best option for tracks are "link and length". But I have yet to find a 1/35 Sherman with that feature.

[BlackSheep214]

Link and length? What's that?