30+ Yr Old AMT 37 Chevy Gasser-Finished/"Under Glass" 08/16

[speedgraflex]

Joe, really interesting discussion! Beautiful job using the base styrene color as your primary coat!

[Stuart]

I appreciate the kind words fellas. You actually do have a little control with a rattle can. The speed at which the passes are made and the distance away from the "target". Temperature and environment play a part in it as well just as with any paint.
You gotta watch a lot of the glosses though. I'm finding that most these days (at least in modeling paints) are lacquer based clears. If an enamel based color is applied you'll have to use a sealer before applying the lacquer based gloss coat or go with a lacquer based color before the clear. You'll end up with a mess you don't want due to paint incompatibility issues. I first ran into this with my 56 F-100 when applying the clear coat over the paint job and the flames that I applied. The base color survived because it was a Tamiya acrylic but the enamel based flames went south quick ! Remember.....enamel over lacquer is fine but lacquer over enamel with no sealer is a disaster waiting to happen.

Just so you guys know....the Challenger is a clear coat only. No paint. That's the molded in red body color. LOTS of body prep on that one!!! lol

Great tips Joe - thanks!

[mustang1989]

No problem fellas. That's what we're all here for.

Here's the article for painting gloss finishes that I was referring to: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ans-part-i

and here's the second one for subassemblies: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ns-part-ii

[KSaarni]

No problem fellas. That's what we're all here for.

Here's the article for painting gloss finishes that I was referring to: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ans-part-i

and here's the second one for subassemblies: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ns-part-ii

Many thanks Joe for the two articles, really well written including good pics!
Excellent stuff!

I was thinking of the paint.. is it safe to use ”real” automobile colors ? Are they like thicker /thinner etc? Still trying to find the precise Iris blue for myself... I mean for my MG...

- Kari

[mustang1989]

No problem fellas. That's what we're all here for.

Here's the article for painting gloss finishes that I was referring to: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ans-part-i

and here's the second one for subassemblies: http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-mode ... ns-part-ii

Many thanks Joe for the two articles, really well written including good pics!
Excellent stuff!

I was thinking of the paint.. is it safe to use ”real” automobile colors ? Are they like thicker /thinner etc? Still trying to find the precise Iris blue for myself... I mean for my MG...

- Kari

No trouble at all Kari. As far as automotive colors go, you can use them. If you're going to use automotive lacquers make sure you prime REALLY well. At least that's been my experience. Spray through an airbrush with really light coats to get good coverage. The thing about automotive color is it goes on fairly well and has a flat almost eggshell like appearance. Don't worry about that as the clear coat will definitely bring out the gloss as well as make the color deeper. If you can get the paint code for the Iris Blue that's what the body shop will need.

[KSaarni]

No trouble at all Kari. As far as automotive colors go, you can use them. If you're going to use automotive lacquers make sure you prime REALLY well. At least that's been my experience. Spray through an airbrush with really light coats to get good coverage. The thing about automotive color is it goes on fairly well and has a flat almost eggshell like appearance. Don't worry about that as the clear coat will definitely bring out the gloss as well as make the color deeper. If you can get the paint code for the Iris Blue that's what the body shop will need.

Thanks again Joe, I had not thought that smart! :-) I have just seen in car accessorie shops all those different spray-cans of all kind of colours.
But to ask a body shop to mix a specific color! That would be something!
However, I am very afraid that might cost too much (living in Belgium, these kind of things are expensive)
(and I would probably need to buy one liter minimum )

I will certainly investigate if that is realistically possible here.

And many thanks for the heads-up regarding priming carefully. I guess it should also be then a primer matching the paint ? So I don't use some Vallejos waterbased primer and then "real" automobile paint... which may have horrible consequences ??

- Kari

[mustang1989]

LOL! No water based primers like Vallejo Kari. Man that would be a mess. I've used Tamiya rattle can gray primer with great results due to the fact that Tamiya rattle can primer is lacquer based. I primed my 1969 Camaro Z to SS resto project with it.

[KSaarni]

LOL! No water based primers like Vallejo Kari. Man that would be a mess. I've used Tamiya rattle can gray primer with great results due to the fact that Tamiya rattle can primer is lacquer based. I primed my 1969 Camaro Z to SS resto project with it.

Thanks! :-)

- Kari

[Stuart]

Great links Joe, those are really useful - Did you say you wrote them?

I've just been to my local HobbyCraft (Hobby Lobby) and picked up some rattle cans - I think that might be the way to go for me at the moment. While I was there a Tamiya 1/24 Mazda MX-5 just might have fallen into the basket

Cheers

Stuart

[speedgraflex]

Great links, Joe!