Eduard BF109 E-4

[KSaarni]

- Kari

[KennyX]

Exhaust stacks are painted, propeller is built and painted and installed, and I sprayed it with clear coat this morning. Coming along...

[KennyX]

I’m really considering not applying washes or stains, and keeping like it just rolled off the assembly line. I’ve put a lot of work into painting it and I really like it. Plus I haven’t done too much weathering and it scares me LOL. If I do, I’ll be using soft pastels for pigment instead of thinned oils.

Any suggestions? I’m open to suggestions...

[Stikpusher]

I really like using the Pro Modeller/Flory wash for panel lines. They are super easy to use and due to their water basing are very forgiving. If you don’t like the look, wipe it off, then re apply.
And for soot stains and such I am a big fan of the Tamiya weathering mediums that come in the little compacts.
Don’t get me wrong, I like oils too. And I have started using some of the AK panel line washes recently- those are working out well so far.

[KennyX]

Thank you, Carlos! I actually have one of those Tamiya weathering kits!

There is one thing- I’m not sure a panel line wash would work because I didn’t scribe any of the panel lines, and those details are quite fine/shallow. Of course, if I can wipe it off, what’s to lose?

[KSaarni]

Thank you, Carlos! I actually have one of those Tamiya weathering kits!

There is one thing- I’m not sure a panel line wash would work because I didn’t scribe any of the panel lines, and those details are quite fine/shallow. Of course, if I can wipe it off, what’s to lose?

It will work Kenny!

- Kari

[speedgraflex]

I thought a bit about your initial question, and decided even if the final effect is a factory finish, there should be weathering effect, because gloss has scale, and reduction of gloss must be achieved even if you plan for a flat factory finish. However, and this is entirely my own opinion for what it is worth, factory painted planes still exhibit a myriad of panel to panel shifts in color, due to the way the factory surfaces were initially prepared. I would certainly address areas around the engine which always exhibit fluid leakage or simply the presence of oily surfaces such as rotors and smoky surfaces such as exhausts... and finally I would address the tires, landing gear struts as well.

[KennyX]

Thank you, fellas!

Yeah, that’s the thing. I don’t want it to look like a toy. And you’re right. Even an aircraft that just got built a week ago won’t look like a Porsche in a showroom.

Okay then, here’s the plan-

For the next few evenings during my model-building time (the half hour or so I get to myself after we put the bébés to bed) I’ll be -very carefully- applying decals, and when that’s done, I’ll get to the weathering, doing so as suggested- tires, landing gear struts, fluids, etc., and a subtle panel line wash. I figure as long as I take my time like I have been, it’ll be okay.

[Stikpusher]

You can also try pencil for your panel lines. It’s a different technique, but when done right, can look great.

[speedgraflex]

You can also try pencil for your panel lines. It’s a different technique, but when done right, can look great.

Graphite is also easily ground to the finest powered surface imaginable, useful for exhaust staining — a dry “usage” effect. I agree with your previous thought regarding the elimination of a toylike appearance. That is a worthy goal.