Bolleken's 1:72 stuff

[Stikpusher]

Fox, 1958, “The Hunters”, based upon James Salters novel of the same name. The aerial footage is pure eye candy. The rest is a typical 50’s Hollywood war movie. Robert Mitchum and Robert Wagner lead against hordes of commie F-84Fs...

[speedgraflex]

Fox, 1958, “The Hunters”, based upon James Salters novel of the same name. The aerial footage is pure eye candy. The rest is a typical 50’s Hollywood war movie. Robert Mitchum and Robert Wagner lead against hordes of commie F-84Fs...

Cool!!

[Bolleken]

Hey guys. Cool pics and information.
Small update. The MB Sabre needs to be prepared for coloring. Another Sabre by Hobby Boss crossed my way and got some cockpit detail. Left-overs from the Matchbox.


Additionally I mixed the assembly steps. So this one has now a seamless intake.

[speedgraflex]

That is cool! Where did the new kit come from? I was planning to study your salt chipping techniques again. Do I understand salt chipping correctly as:

1) wet surface to be treated by brush
2) add salt crystals beside panel lines
3) let dry
4) paint topcoat

I am paraphrasing Carlos here, but I want to know if you have any additional advice?

[Stikpusher]

That is cool! Where did the new kit come from? I was planning to study your salt chipping techniques again. Do I understand salt chipping correctly as:

1) wet surface to be treated by brush
2) add salt crystals beside panel lines
3) let dry
4) paint topcoat

I am paraphrasing Carlos here, but I want to know if you have any additional advice?

Pretty much... then remove your chipping medium after the top coat paint is dry.

Not that I’ve ever done any chipping myself...

I always go with good old fashioned dry brushing...

[Duke Maddog]

Excellent work so far.

I love that panel showing all the versions of the Sabre in different country markings. Now I need to get at least four or five more to add to some of my air forces....

[Bolleken]

That is cool! Where did the new kit come from? I was planning to study your salt chipping techniques again. Do I understand salt chipping correctly as:

1) wet surface to be treated by brush
2) add salt crystals beside panel lines
3) let dry
4) paint topcoat

I am paraphrasing Carlos here, but I want to know if you have any additional advice?

You are right. Some small additions, if that is ok for u?

1. Don't wet the entire surface. The intense of water is important for the effect.
2. Let the salt fall onto the wet surface area.
3. You might get shokked when u are using a water based glossy coat. There will be white areas where salt gets in contact with that coat. But this is only temporally and will disappear when you process.
4. Remove the salt by using soft tools.

[speedgraflex]

Thanks, Marius. I appreciate the additional information. Very helpful. My main concern is not to create large chips. Quite a feat on your part to scale the chips down to 1/72. In 1/48 I want small chipped sections, mainly around the loading panels on top of each wing. The wing roots are molded to the fuselage itself so these will be treated with a natural metal finish in lacquer based paints. In fact, I have stocked up on quite a lot of lacquers. I do have some Mig AMMO acrylic based paints in USAAF colors that I could try out, though. I am finding myself enjoying the durability of lacquers, though.

I would very much like to build more 1/72 kits. I looked for the Hughes Racer in 1/72, but have not found it yet. I did find the Hughes Racer in 1/48, but the seller feels somehow out of sync with me; and has since slipped into the shadows of the internet.

[Bolleken]

Hey Bruce, you are welcome.
I would suggest to so some trials.
You can drive the intensity once the salt and water have been dried. You will see the cristals on the surface. Then you can remove or add salt. A different strategy can be to use hairspray instead of salt.

[speedgraflex]

Thank you. Have you ever tried different tapes—clear, masking, duct tape—in a sectional pull-away method with the topcoat. Press a piece of tape onto the surface of the airplane model kit and peel off fast. The tape should pull up some of the color, leaving the underlying aluminum to show through.