Revell Spitfire Mk IX 1/32

[KSaarni]

So, time to see what happens with the gap, when the cockpit is attached to the fuselage....



I made some changes in the build and decided this to become a pure "Out of the Box" build, in other words no AM belts, I will leave them for another build... That really accelerated the work with the cockpit....

But... here we go...



There is a gap, not as significant as without the cockpit module installed, but still a significant gap....

And also, the fit of the wing construction is not as good under the fuselage, as it was without the cockpit... meaning some cutting and sanding needed..

- Kari

[KennyX]

Kari, what’s your preferred method for dealing with fuselage gaps like that? I’m thinking of jettisoning my “Just fill it with Tamiya Putty and sand the shit out of it” method used previously. I’m looking for better options for the future.

[KSaarni]

Kari, what’s your preferred method for dealing with fuselage gaps like that? I’m thinking of jettisoning my “Just fill it with Tamiya Putty and sand the shit out of it” method used previously. I’m looking for better options for the future.

I will probably go with a combination of strecthed sprue (easy to make precisely the correct thickness) and then finalize with putty.
And then sand the shit out of it!

As a matter of fact, I have never used Tamiyas putty (true!) but always used Vallejos Plastic putty. But curious to test Tamiyas also!.

- Kari

[speedgraflex]

I added photos to my Mustang thread—possibly redundant now.

I was going to suggest adding the stretched sprue to the upper wing part first to extend the plastic, and save the sanding time. Thoughts?

Quickie sketch-up steps

[KSaarni]

I added photos to my Mustang thread—possibly redundant now.

I was going to suggest adding the stretched sprue to the upper wing part first to extend the plastic, and save the sanding time. Thoughts?

Yep! That (perfect) suggestion from you is also the way I am planning to tackle the gap ! :-)

- Kari

[KennyX]

I added photos to my Mustang thread—possibly redundant now.

I was going to suggest adding the stretched sprue to the upper wing part first to extend the plastic, and save the sanding time. Thoughts?

Quickie sketch-up steps

Thank you for including that, Bruce!!!!

[KennyX]

Kari,

The Tamiya Putty is an interesting thing. It comes in a tube and it’s the consistency of like, one of those hair mousses that the fella put in their hair for the “bed head” look. And it doesn’t stay tacky long. In my experience it starts drying quickly when you use it straight no thinner. Boy oh boy can it smell-up a room. So far it’s worked pretty good with my admittedly rudimentary process.

I’m liking this stretched spruce breakdwon that Bruce posted. I’m gonna try that next time I have wing root issues, instead of the Putty.

[speedgraflex]

Kari,

The Tamiya Putty is an interesting thing. It comes in a tube and it’s the consistency of like, one of those hair mousses that the fella put in their hair for the “bed head” look. And it doesn’t stay tacky long. In my experience it starts drying quickly when you use it straight no thinner. Boy oh boy can it smell-up a room. So far it’s worked pretty good with my admittedly rudimentary process.

I’m liking this stretched spruce breakdwon that Bruce posted. I’m gonna try that next time I have wing root issues, instead of the Putty.

I know this is Kari’s thread but I want to share my thoughts on fillers, putties, etc. I hope Kari will permit me.

• 1. Sprue glue, home brew from Tamiya or equivalent (I use Mr Cement S) in a recycled glass bottle; mix sprue shavings with cement and adjust thickness to suit.
  
  2. Superglue with sprue dust. I like to grind sprues to powder - and I prefer keeping like sprues with like meaning I use what comes with each kit with each kit. I used this method on the toughest to build AMT/ERTL Star Trek Models. Those kits are Tupperware plastic and do not want to stay together. Basically I would apply 15-20 second curing Superglue by 3M and sprinkle the dust on. This acts as a natural filler embedded in superglue and sands smooth.
  
  3. Milliput Superfine White. I use this to fill most gapped seams in non load bearing areas or in the areas least subject to flexing. Mix this up from two sticks - hardener and putty - and you have a shaping putty that is easy to smooth on. I use non latex gloves because this may be slightly skin irritating. The only smell issuing from use is a wet earth or mud aroma which fades as the ‘Put cures.
  
  4. Mr White Putty. This is similar to Tamiya White but smoother and a tad easier to work with; still stinks in a latex meets lacquer way that Tamiya White does, though.
  
  5. Squadron Green. I used to use this and now I do not.

[KSaarni]

Kari,

The Tamiya Putty is an interesting thing. It comes in a tube and it’s the consistency of like, one of those hair mousses that the fella put in their hair for the “bed head” look. And it doesn’t stay tacky long. In my experience it starts drying quickly when you use it straight no thinner. Boy oh boy can it smell-up a room. So far it’s worked pretty good with my admittedly rudimentary process.

I’m liking this stretched spruce breakdwon that Bruce posted. I’m gonna try that next time I have wing root issues, instead of the Putty.

Thanks Kenny, I need to get one tube of Tamiya putty!

- Kari

[KSaarni]

I know this is Kari’s thread but I want to share my thoughts on fillers, putties, etc. I hope Kari will permit me.

• 1. Sprue glue, home brew from Tamiya or equivalent (I use Mr Cement S) in a recycled glass bottle; mix sprue shavings with cement and adjust thickness to suit.
  
  2. Superglue with sprue dust. I like to grind sprues to powder - and I prefer keeping like sprues with like meaning I use what comes with each kit with each kit. I used this method on the toughest to build AMT/ERTL Star Trek Models. Those kits are Tupperware plastic and do not want to stay together. Basically I would apply 15-20 second curing Superglue by 3M and sprinkle the dust on. This acts as a natural filler embedded in superglue and sands smooth.
  
  3. Milliput Superfine White. I use this to fill most gapped seams in non load bearing areas or in the areas least subject to flexing. Mix this up from two sticks - hardener and putty - and you have a shaping putty that is easy to smooth on. I use non latex gloves because this may be slightly skin irritating. The only smell issuing from use is a wet earth or mud aroma which fades as the ‘Put cures.
  
  4. Mr White Putty. This is similar to Tamiya White but smoother and a tad easier to work with; still stinks in a latex meets lacquer way that Tamiya White does, though.
  
  5. Squadron Green. I used to use this and now I do not.

That is a good and interesting list that helps many regarding differnt "fillers" or filling methods!

Nr 2, to use CA and sprue dust was totally something new to me! I know people use CA glue and baking soda together. But I must say, I prefer more your variant, sprue dust instead of a food product...

Thanks Bruce for the excellent list!

- Kari