The mottle preshade is very easy to do. There is nothing complicated about it so I'm sure any of you could give it a try and get similar results. The main thing thing about this technique (and black basing) is the thin paint mixtures. I'm using 3:1 or 4:1 thinner/paint ratios. It's quite watery and you have to adjust your painting techniques to compensate. Coverage will take multiple passes to build up enough opacity. The reward is an infinite increase in control and satin, grain-free finishes.
The Dora is ready for its first camo color, which will be the RLM 76 Light Blue. Starting at the tail, the blue is built up slowly, gradually and working from panel to panel. It's important to have good lighting and constantly shift your perspective to make sure you monitor your results from all angles as you go.
As I move forward, I'm looking at the areas I've already painted and adding opacity to the blue until I get to the desired point.
The thin paints allow you to dial in the effect, depending on what you want. I prefer a very subtle, almost unnoticeable effect, which the tail exhibits. This will be the first of many layers of weathering so I don't need the pre-shade to do it all.
Similarly, I apply the RLM 76 to the other side. I am leaving more of the preshade visible as you go forward. This is due to the engine location, which in itself is a source of wear (i.e. the exhaust pipes and various heat effects). Also the camo gets denser and more complicated towards the front.
A close-up of some of the painted areas to show the riveting work and also the smooth, grain-free paint finish that the thinned paint allows. One of the things that I do in the beginning of all builds is to re-scribe ALL of the panel lines including hatches and ports. Not necessarily to make them deeper but make them more uniform.
After the RLM76 is done, I apply the RLM82 Bright Green to the wings. Because the wing camo is simpler and also to facilitate the chipping at the wing roots, I am going to paint the wings first and do the fuselage later.
The thin paint also much greater spray control, which minimizes the need for masking. There is a slight overspray at the RLM 76/ RLM 82 junction but perfectly acceptable given the further painting that will occur here. I will probably chip the RLM 82 before applying the darker RLM 83 green.
I do find his method of treating every sub assembly as a project of its own to completion: engine, prop, landing gear, before moving on to the next portion, to be masterful. The results speak for themselves.
big plus 1 on that, Carlos. For sure. I’m trying to assimilate this philosophy into what I’m doing because the results of John’s labors are, frankly, stunning.
