1:32 P40E (Hasegawa)

[mostrich]

Just as a little addendum to Carlos' explanations: Enamels and oils are mixable, even if one of them has a benzene based thinner and the other a veg-oil. Oils can take centuries(!) to cure. Of course that's a worst case scenario that can happen with old fashion paints consisting of natural pigments solved in linseed oil.
My experiences with Humbrol and Revell enamels are similar. They can take easily over a week until they stop being sticky or reacting on body heat (melted-in fingerprints). That's why I stepped away from using them in my AB. Still great for detail painting or some weathering techniques.

[speedgraflex]

Just as a little addendum to Carlos' explanations: Enamels and oils are mixable, even if one of them has a benzene based thinner and the other a veg-oil. Oils can take centuries(!) to cure. Of course that's a worst case scenario that can happen with old fashion paints consisting of natural pigments solved in linseed oil.
My experiences with Humbrol and Revell enamels are similar. They can take easily over a week until they stop being sticky or reacting on body heat (melted-in fingerprints). That's why I stepped away from using them in my AB. Still great for detail painting or some weathering techniques.

Both posts are very cool. I just wanted to add that enamel will always have a special place because that was the first paint I ever used on my first model ever... and when I came back to model building in 2015 I was using enamels on the Moonbus for the fullest experience possible. I have found after using Testors in particular that enamel paint is picky about plastic. Since it drapes on (enamels really do like to be layered again in my humble opinion) as a glaze, enamel tends to be subject to color blooms as well as curing issues. I found using thinner liberally helps.

Oh, snap. This is about oils and mixing oils. Apologies, folks.

[KSaarni]

I just wanted to add that enamel will always have a special place because that was the first paint I ever used on my first model ever...

Same here, Humbrols enamels was my first paint also! Sometimes I am intrigued to "test it out", for nostalgia reasons if nothing else...

- Kari

[Stikpusher]

To me, Humbrols are a far superior enamel compared to Model Master. And Model Master has had quality control issues in the past several years. I have old tins of Humbrol that are around 30 years old, and still usable. Model Master.... not so good, or long lived. But maybe it’s the climate here, as I rarely have slow dry/cure times with my enamels. Especially when they have been thoroughly stirred. And they are hard to beat for dry brushing...

[jkim]

Thanks for the insights on oil paints! I just need to use them more. I've been doing enough with pastel-based washes that I've become familiar with how they work.

I remember enamels from my childhood days. Most department stores, even drug stores back then, sold model kits and supplies. Testors and Pactra were the most widely available. Fingerprints from the tacky paint were on every model.

I'm so glad they've developed better paint since those days. I love the fact that there are so many paint choices available to the modeler. I currently use Tamiya and Gunze acrylics and I love the finish and how fast they dry. On my small patch repairs, I am painting, then masking and then painting again within minutes. No way you could get away with that using old Testors paints.

[Stikpusher]

Yes, the big advantage of acylics is their quick drying time allowing more rapid progress.

[Stuart]

um... some of us are still stuck in the past!

[Stikpusher]

I’m right there with you Stuart!

1985 was a great year...

[Stuart]

[Stikpusher]