Trumpeter 1/32 Me262A-1 Yellow 3

[Handiabled]

This is gorgeous! I love the resin am parts you added! I made the 1/32 Trumpeter A-1a once upon a time and remember putting multiple shotgun slugs in the nose to keep it from being a tail dragger... Watching this one !!

[Stikpusher]

This is gorgeous! I love the resin am parts you added! I made the 1/32 Trumpeter A-1a once upon a time and remember putting multiple shotgun slugs in the nose to keep it from being a tail dragger... Watching this one !!

Slugs?!?!?! That’s a LOT of weight...

[Handiabled]

Slugs?!?!?! That’s a LOT of weight...


Word... pounded them flat with a hammer... it took quite a bit of weight to change the balance point

[speedgraflex]

Black CA. Huh. D’ya mean this????

[jkim]

Yup... that's the stuff, Bruce. Although it is in a different bottle, it is also called IC-2000 so my guess is that it is the same. Plain CA as a filler is ok but I find it gets too hard compared to the plastic and therefore more difficult to sand. This black stuff is a little easier from that standpoint and the black color makes it easy to see.

I applied some Mr Surfacer 1000 to some seam imperfections on the engine nacelles so I turned to the other outer components to start the camo painting process. The base black was broken up using Tamiya Neutral Grey.


RLM 76 Light Blue was sprayed on the appropriate parts. Halfway through painting the undersides of the horizontal stabilizers, I sprayed the main panel lines with a dark grey to simulate the putty along the seams.


Here are the parts after the RLM76.



The uppers were sprayed with RLM83 Dark Green. The areas around the panel lines is lighter to represent the putty underneath. When I get to the fuselage, I may buff away some of the green along the panel lines using Micromesh to get more of a wear effect.


The horizontal stabilizers were given some base weathering including a panel wash, some post-shading and a small bit of chipping. The stain on the upper side of the starboard stabilizer is from decal solution but has since been removed.



The control surfaces after painting...



The main landing gear covers...



The nose landing gear doors...



The errant seams were sanded and re-painted in gloss black.

[speedgraflex]

This was actually the first post I read this evening and it was so perfectly timed for because I am color matching upper in RLM71/02 with RLM70 for the propeller nose and thinking about the interference layers and so on and so forth and wondering why this is so hard for me to figure out, then I looked at your post and felt so much better—here was proof that things will work out. Thank you so much, John. I thought, "Incredible!" several times as I marched through the photographs you sequenced here. I also thought, "The hands of a master!" too, because seriously, good. This is seriously, good. I add the comma because I have to catch my breath every time I think about how good the painting is here.

I have random thoughts—paint lays differently on wood than metal but even at 1/32 scale would this be visible (the tail fin is so amazing, truly). I also wonder if the profile is as close to the actual (witness the size of the '3') as possible and how the checkerboard pattern will be done by you... I think that will be quite a challenge, that whole tail fin section! I know you will succeed but how will this be achieved??? That's the question.

[jkim]

Thank you, Bruce! I’m actually mulling over those things too. The wood tail fin will take care of itself sine it was painted separately and with colors distinct from the rest of the airframe. RLM70 Black Green over a light version of RLM76. The hard mottle will be done inversely using Blu-tack. The checkerboard.... I’ll figure something out. Black-base vs hairspray chipping at the wing roots... need to figure how those go together. Based on the results on the stabs, I’m seriously considering masking the putty lines, although that would be quite the chore.

I may do the tail and checkerboard first and mask it off to paint the rest of the camo. That option is in play due to hard borders. Lots to think about but painting the stabs and various covers gives me a good idea of what might work with the RLM83/RLM76 scheme.

[KSaarni]

Yup... that's the stuff, Bruce. Although it is in a different bottle, it is also called IC-2000 so my guess is that it is the same. Plain CA as a filler is ok but I find it gets too hard compared to the plastic and therefore more difficult to sand. This black stuff is a little easier from that standpoint and the black color makes it easy to see.

That is actually extremely smart! Wonder why the same ”principle” could not be applied to normal cements also? Would be easier to see and sand away. And nevertheless, in 99% or more cases, the glue will receive a layer of paint.
Imagine! Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Black Edition

- Kari

[Stikpusher]

Another beauty!!!!

[BlackSheep214]

Another beauty!!!!