Pacific Coast Models 1/32 Fw 190A-1. Black 13. Belgium, 1941

[Floki]

Great point, John! I am trying to weed colorized versions out. I think the flesh tones give it away. Perhaps this one. I am trying to get a sense of how the factory finishes evolved from usage.

This photo is exactly what I've been looking for it shows the randomness and slop of this scheme. I had the 79 over 65 down on the Storch and went to start spraying the 65 meander over the 79. It came out terrible so got out the rubbing alcohol and took it back down to the primer 2 days of work lost, gonna start painting the base colors again tomorrow and hope attempt two is better.

[speedgraflex]

Ken—Thank you! I am sitting on the fence about darkening the cockpit so much. I am not sure what the good folks at Eduard were thinking.

Marius—The Heinkel 117! Reichsfeuerzeug!

Clint:

[jkim]

Don't let the Eduard color pull you astray. The color of the cockpit doesn't have to match the IP exactly. Just get the tone similar so that the difference isn't jarring. The IP will be sitting in the shadow of the coaming anyway.

Or... consider painting out the Eduard IP panels with the correct color. The little detail that is on those purple parts can be replicated by hand easily enough. Or you can leave those areas as is and just cover other areas enough to shift the overall color impression away from the purple to the RLM66.

[speedgraflex]

Thank you so much, John! The reason I concentrated on the seat was to limit the area to refinish. I will be able to strip the part and redo the initial colors. Your ideas are great for the IP! Maybe I should just ignore the IP completely... or find one.

Update.

Since I never really liked the wrinkles sculpted as part of the leather seat cushion (“scarring” not worn leather) I decided to add a smoother layer of Milliput over the seat. This was also just an element I wanted to change aesthetically about the kit based on looking at available reference.

[jkim]

The seat cushion will be all but covered up once you get the lap belts and shoulder harnesses mounted on the seat. Just sayin...

[Stikpusher]

Very true...

[speedgraflex]

Thanks so much for your advice and thoughts, John. I sincerely appreciate your ideas and your encouragement. Likewise, Carlos—Thank you, sir. I am just busy enough that any time modeling comes as a bit of a break while waiting for something else to finish (video rendering). I did start to wonder if I tried Model Master primers and colors on the cockpit areas then following along with Humbrol for detailing if the work flow would “flow” for me.

[Stikpusher]

Bruce, I can’t speak for or against Model Master primers, I’ve never used them. But I have used Humbrol primer for a decade or so now and have been very happy with that stuff. Once it dries, it’s tough as nails and gives the follow on paint a great surface. I’m sure that it will work great under Model Master, who currently have a better selection of RLM colors than Humbrol. Or any other paint brand that you like.

[Bolleken]

Are u guys talking about Enamels or Acrylics? For RLM colors I would suggest Gunze with a great range of RLMs (only for airbrush).

My old Matchbox are painted with those.

[Stikpusher]

Gunze acrylics are superb. They have a fantastic color range. Excellent adhesion and durability. For airbrushing, there is none better.
Unfortunately, they stopped importing them to shops in the USA over labeling issues. I am not as big of a fan of their other paint line that they fixed the label situation with, the Mr Hobby line. They are good paints also, but the clean up and thinning can only be done with their thinner or lacquer thinner. No thanks.