1/350 USS Buchanan

[Medicman71]

Here's my entry into this. I've never built a ship before so this outta be fun. It comes with a lot of PE and some decals for the wood planked walkways.

[Medicman71]

Wow these instructions are insane. There's no paint callouts during the build.

[speedgraflex]

Subscribed!! I know with the Trumpeter kit I had to identify the colors part by part... and I am feeling a major case of deja vu here as I look at your instructions!! Excellent kit - those details!

[Floki]

Got this kit in the stash, I'll be watching closely and taking notes.

[Modelcrazy]

For paint callouts here is an outstanding site

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/warship_camouflage.htm

Your ship.

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_12_modified.htm

Or you could go with the 43 scheme during the Solomon Islands where she was reported in measure 21

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_21.htm

Or 1944 where she was in MS 31

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_31.htm

3d design

https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collec ... 05504.html

Most US Navy ships didn't paint their decks after the first part of the war and instead went with blue. There are some instances where a ship is shown with natural decks but those are usually during repainting.
BTW, the decals are for the non-skid walkways. Most destroyers had metal decks during the war...and after for that matter.

It is difficult to match US Navy paint with current model colors so here is a link that helps me. It matches to Vallejo paint but they can be cross matched to other manufacturers. Since I prefer Vallejo on ships since it is excellent for a brush painting, plus the sheen seems correct. I usually have to mix colors but ships get beat up anyway so the exact color isn't really a concern.

http://www.ipmsswamp.com/files/VallejoW ... alents.pdf

That looks like and excellent kit and I am watching with interest to see her come together. Do not be intimidated by ships. they do go together differently, like panes and armor does but they are easy. I usually like to build all of the superstructure sections first, including the PE, paint and rigging before attaching them to the deck. Moving from the center out cuts down the possibility of breaking what you have installed while trying to add more or paint IMO. Ships can take some time however, especially with PE so don't burn yourself out, they are long term projects typically. that is why this GB is open ended. If you choose to do rigging I have some experience wit it and different materials. EZ line being one of them but it doesn't work for every occasion, sometimes, stretched sprue it the go to material.
Glad to see you get started

[LyleW]

I do admire you young bucks that can tackle these...or at least t hose with good eyes and steady hands. It is fun to watch these come together.

[Medicman71]

I was going to do the Measure 21 scheme cause, well, honestly it's the easiest. I'll have to see if I have the paint for it.

Do the non-skid walkways have to be there? Just seems like a pain in the ass to add decals around everything.

[Modelcrazy]

No, they don't need to be there, They will just be a slightly different color than the deck. If your feeling adventurous you can paint the deck, mask those areas off, and spray them prior to attaching the superstructure but no one will even notice if they are missing.

[Medicman71]

I got one of the two paints I needed at HL. It's the Vallejo Model paint that's made for brush painting. I am have the other but I only have it in Model Air.

[Modelcrazy]

I like using Vallejo for ships, they a easy to brush for those fiddly bits all over the ship, the sheen looks correct. it takes oils for rust and weathering perfectly, but a tad touchy to spray. The Air is, on the other hand, a tad touchy to brush but both work well for me.