1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress)..

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lawdog114
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1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress)..

Post by lawdog114 »

In my opinion the 1/48 P-40 B/C, the Tomahawk Model 81, is without a doubt the most under-represented subject in 1/48 scale, perhaps in any scale. How could such an important plane go so unrecognized? Let's see, the Monogram kit has been around since the Beatles invasion and the Hobbycraft (now Academy) version is rather "basic" and has glaring detail and inaccuracy issues. I built the Trumpeter kit recently and it was mediocre at best, with a crumby cockpit and mad rivets, more like potholes, everywhere. There's other stuff but they escape me at the moment. I simply cannot believe Eduard has not tackled this subject yet with their newfound kit technology. Like we need another Bf 109 (sorry, I like the Hasegawa versions).

Anyways, It is generally accepted that the Monogram P-40 is the most "accurate" in outline. The Hobbycraft has recessed panel lines and is easier to build. Armed with this logic, I decided to try to create reasonably accurate P-40 B by splicing the two. I intent to build one of the two P-40's that got airborne at Pearl Harbor and scored kills on the morning of December 7th 1941.

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The most noticeable problem with the Academy kit is the belly, which is too flat and is more appropriate for later P-40 variants (Monogram in olive drab plastic).

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To improve this area, I then endeavored to "graft" the Monogram belly onto the Academy kit. This would have been a piece of cake if I were to procure a Dremel tool, but I still I tend gravitate towards the hard way to do things....some day I'll learn. I first chopped off the belly of the Monogram kit with a #11 Exacto. It was easy because the Monogram plastic is soft and flimsy. I used the same blade and carved out a section of the Academy belly. I also thinned out the inside of the Monogram belly so it would be easier to manipulate into place.

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Here you can see how it should look...huge difference

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Some super glue, trimming and hefty sanding was in order, but I eventually got to this point. Some putty was needed as well.

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A quick test fit revealed more sanding and forming was needed but we're getting there.....and more putty...

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Once I thought it looked about right, I hit the area with primer to reveal any areas that needed more attention. I think this looks about right. Its not perfect but it will pass.

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As I said before, the kit has other issues, such as a too narrow wing root fillets and inaccurate tail planes, but I can live with these. The belly modification should go a long way in improving things. I also hit up Sprue Brothers for a True Details cockpit and Eduard flaps which should further enhance the kit.

More to come soon.

Joe
Can you fly this plane and land it? Surely you can't be serious? I am serious, and don't call me Shirley
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BorgR3mc0
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by BorgR3mc0 »

That is an interesting fix for the shape issue. I do not know Iif a Dremel would have helped much, most models Dremel have a to high speed to cut trough plastic without melting it. This looks like a good solution.
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Paul
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by Paul »

Man, I do love styrene surgery.
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CallSignOWL
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by CallSignOWL »

interesting!
Every take-off has a landing...some are just better than others
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Stuart
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by Stuart »

A very nice bit conversion work!

P-40s are the coolest aircraft ever!

Cheers

Stuat
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lawdog114
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by lawdog114 »

Thanks everyone. Borg, the cordless battery operated Dremels are not as powerful and have a slow speed option so the plastic doesn't melt. I've been meaning to get one but I've always put it off because I dont do all that much scratch building. It would come in handy for side wall detail removal for AM cockpits. Their also supposed to be nice for thinning out plastic to make bullet holes.

Now that I compared the belly to my Trumpeter P-40 B version, I may need to sand it down a bit more at the leading edge. I intend to open the radiator flaps too which will help. I'll fabricate these out of pop can aluminum. Anyone have any close ups on how these should look on a B?

Joe
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BorgR3mc0
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by BorgR3mc0 »

Pop can aluminum? Make sure it is Arizona! :lol:
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Manny1943
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by Manny1943 »

A few things:

1) Nice surgery on this MOFO...
2) P-40 variants are even more confusing to me than Bf109 variants...
3) I've acquired a taste for a "Pearl" defender in the form of a P-40 over the years and have been looking for a 72nd scale kit to accomplish this mission with...

Now build some more and post pics...
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by Thomas_M »

I have a cordless Dremel but think it is too fast for cutting plastic without melting. Have to try this, though.
Happy to see this neglected aircraft done here! I am surprised how well the new belly fits Academy´s engine back. Good work!
lawdog114
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Re: 1/48 Mono-cademy P-40 B "Pearl Harbor" (Work in Progress

Post by lawdog114 »

Thanks folks. With all this talk about Dremel tools, fate would have me in the tool isle at Wal-Mart this weekend scratching my head. Knowing I would be doing much more sanding in this project. I broke down and bought one.

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Its the cordless 7700 model, which was $40.00 well spent. Since I would be adding a True Details pit, the kit side wall detail needed to be removed. On the "Low" setting, with a sanding drum bit, this took maybe minute. I experienced no melting of the plastic. The trick is to use light pressure and keep the tool moving. I also cut out the closed radiator flaps with the cutting bit. It was a piece of cake. I can't believe I waiting this long to buy one.

I then turned my attention to the TD pit. It's and ex- KMC mold that was supposed to be designed for this kit. Its beautifully detailed and relatively cheap, but the instructions are horrible. The hardest part was removing the resin block from the floor. I started with a razor saw (to keep the unhealthy resin dust down) but this was taking forever and the piece kept slipping out of my hand. I eventually whipped out the Dremel and sliced it off.

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Time for paint. I concocted my own Curtiss Bronze Green with one part XF-81 RAF Green, one part XF-5 Flat Green, and two parts XF-8 Flat Blue. If you would like to see how do my cockpits, see the tutorial in the Modeling tips section.

I'm not crazy about the TD instrument panel. The dials are too deep and impossible to drybrush. I decided to add 5 minute clear epoxy to simulate glass dials. I may paint up the kit part and compare the two. I just didn't feel like buying a PE set along with a resin pit, nor should one have to.

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I hope to get it buttoned up soon...

Joe
Can you fly this plane and land it? Surely you can't be serious? I am serious, and don't call me Shirley
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