SPA Modeler

Here's an thread I saved over at Model Car Magazine forum about it: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topi ... nt-1872533

Thanks. That was good info!

That's good information. Alas, I did the other three wheels anyway. Oh well, looks good enough for me. I had discovered the tip does come off easy. I may have to run to HL and get more next time - this time the thicker tip. Yeah, $11.99 each plus 40% off should run me around $8 after tax. Not bad.


When I was cleaning up my palette dish of dried up residual Molotow Chrome, I found out thinner doesn't work for clean up. So, I went for Wet Ones sheets instead. It took a bit of scrubbing but it cleaned it up just fine.

Better question is how much of the Molotow chrome paint does the thick pen hold?

Another thought came to mind. For argument's sake, when airbrushing Molotow chrome and assuming cleanup is with Windex, will lacquer thinner work to do run a final cleanup thru the airbrush to remove any residual chrome paints?

What about spraying gloss clearcoat to seal it all in? Which clearcoat would be safe to use - enamel based, acrylic based, or lacquer based?

It holds 30ml and os a refill, not a pen. The ones I saw were 30.

Hey Tom, the only clear that works with Molotow is the Spaztix Ultimate Chrome Clear. And I almost forgot...laquer thinner works great for clean up as well.

Ok, now I feel stupid.. where do you find this Spaztix Chrome Clear? Where can you find the 30ml bottle of Molotow Chrome?

LOL!!! No worries brutha. I've done the same thing. Ebay has both items. Just order up and if you need any help with the application just lemme know and we'll go from there.

Worked on this beast and found the kit itself has a bad case of flash on just about on every single sprue. Everything doesn’t fit right so I’ve spent a better part of the evening dry fitting, trimming flash on the parts, and sanding..... and even more trimming of flash and sanding.

It’s obvious this is an old mold and some parts are too thin to do any trimming and sanding (steering wheel for example) but I do the best I can without risking breakage.

However, I was able to glue the front seat halves, the rear axle halves, the steering column to the steering wheel - even though the steering wheel is slightly warped.

I am very disappointed with the quality of the AMT kit itself so I may find another brand kit of the ‘55 Chevy Bel Air and swap/salvage parts between the two kits.

I've decided to use salvage of the engine parts from my old Monte Carlo kit I had that was falling apart and use it on this engine:


This is the engine and chrome oil pan from the '55 Chevy Bel Air kit I've done so far last night...