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Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:57 am
by scorpiomikey
I normally spray tamiya paints with a 50/50 paint IPA mix at 30PSI. It works well for the environment im in. Most days when i spray are hot and humid.
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 2:57 am
by scorpiomikey
It has begun.
That shark mouth damn near gave me an aneurysm. Even with half a bottle of solvaset it still wrinkled. These old tamiya decals are driving me nuts, theyre so thick and gluey, and they dont sit down right.
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 5:53 am
by mlp
good progress.
for thick decals I often use just future below, meaning I brush future to the place the decals has to go, then place the decal and then try to press it down with a cotton swap. future is shrinking when it dries and that way soaks the decal down; works pretty well for me. That way I placed all the declas on the Venom and the wall
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 5:54 am
by BorgR3mc0
That shark mouth is probably the worst on to do, juggeling two decals on a very curved surface is always difficult. Looks good thoug!
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:00 pm
by scorpiomikey
Thanks guys. I didnt even think about that for the future. Ive never come across decals this horrid before. As for the shark mouth, only done one half so far.
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:04 pm
by Paul
I use hot water for those types and for decal setting solution I go with solvaset. I have never had good luck with future as a setting solution but thats me for sure. Any way, mike, it looks good to me.
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 11:03 am
by CallSignOWL
you could always try the white-glue method too.
Mix a bit of white glue and water until its a consistency of light cream/whole milk. puddle that where you want the decal to go, then roll the decal down with a qtip (or something along those lines) after it has sat for a moment. The white glue not only helps the decal stick to the surface but it also shrinks as it drys, pulling the decal around curved surfaces. It dries flat too, so it really helps get rid of silvering.
fellas at my IPMS club swear by it.
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 12:27 pm
by scorpiomikey
Thats a neat idea Owl, i might try that. Although i think i want to keep consistency with this kit, its been a bit...temperamental.
Re: Tamiya 1:48 A-10A (Pic Heavy)
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 12:48 pm
by Fermis
I used to go the same route as Owl mentioned...also works great for them old builds that have decals peeling up!
For the compound curves of the A-10's nose...I'd paint that sucker!
I always try to replace Tamiya(Academy and Hasegawa too) decals, whenever possible. For such great models, they really suck at making decals!